Republic by Omar Farooq
Omar Farooq has made a mark for himself as one of the foremost menswear designers in the country. Time and again, he has proven that he has a well-honed artistic eye for the various genres that encompass menswear: fashion-forward pret and formal-wear. His collections at bridal week tend to cater to the latter category and never had Omar disappointed with his suits and sherwanis. Until now.
There was nothing particularly innovative about the Eastern formals and in fact, the mix of colors, print and textures often did not go well together. There were certain designs that truly made me wonder if Omar was creating them – like the sherwani with the chevron pattern down its length, the beige kurta paired with a silver brocade shawl or the short jackets in unflattering colors.
In addition, a selection of male models also came out wearing suits, carrying cloth bags that held flowers, apparently stressing that all humanity should be given freedom. I can’t fathom what florals had to do with this particular message. And while I am all for supporting social messages, both on and off the catwalk, a collection lacking sartorial finesse can’t be saved via social commentary.
Whatever happened, Republic by Omar Farooq? This collection came as an unwelcome surprise.
HSY
HSY, however, raised the fluctuating sartorial quotient with a finale that was indicative of his brand’s evolution. The thick beige hand embroideries that are his signature were very much there but amping them was a play of color and texture.
There was embroidery running down the length of shirts in intricate rivulets, curving into scallops, chevrons and florals. There were eye-catching deep blues and violets, with their blend of jamawar and threadwork; long column shirts that were lovely and all-white designs that had a classy elegance to them. Less appealing were the light blue ruffled tops, giving off a Spanish effect, but not quite befitting the pairing with an embroidered lehnga.
Nevertheless, the womenswear as well as the menswear was well-conceived. It was, certainly, one of the designer’s stronger collections in recent times and it thankfully wrapped up a not-too-great day at fashion week on a happy note.
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