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The test of time: City’s oldest bath never loses steam

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The test of time: City’s oldest bath never loses steam
Published: June 28, 2015
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A traditional hamam in Mohallah Khudadad, Qissa Khwani Bazaar. PHOTO: RIAZ AHMAD/EXPRESS

PESHAWAR: Dating back half a millennia, a traditional hamam located in the bustling streets of Mohallah Khudadad in Qissa Khwani Bazaar may appear to be an anachronism in these modern times. However, Muhammad Ishaq prides himself on being the owner of the only steam bath in the city.

“Although steam baths exist across the country, this is one of the few traditional hamams which still remains,” he tells The Express Tribune.

Situated on Muhammad Ali Johar Road, the bathhouse has stood the test of time. Ishaq has managed to keep his business afloat so that the centuries-old bathhouse does not turn into a breeding ground for decay.

“My family has owned the hamam for five centuries,” he explains, though not without pride.

Echoes of the past

A quick look at its structure suggests that it is modelled on the design of Turkish steam baths. However, the owner says the traditional bathhouse is built on the lines of steam baths found in Central Asia.

“My forefathers established this hamam after they migrated from Bukhara in Central Asia,” he explains.

Even though several centuries have passed, the bathhouse still resounds with echoes of its past.

“It was once the largest hamam in the city,” Ishaq says. “However, as our family grew in size, so did the number of claimants for the property where the hamam was located. With time, the property was divided among family members.”

Ishaq runs the hamam in a small portion of the property while the rest of his family has either sold or commercialised their share.

Beyond losses

The bathhouse used to open up every fall and winter. However, in 2012, Ishaq suffered huge losses and now runs the hamam only in summer.

“During winter, I sell haleem to earn a living,” he adds.

However, the hiccup has not dented the popularity of his business and it has continued to function smoothly.

“I charge Rs4,000 per bath and get customers from as far as Gilgit ,” he says. “A masseur is provided to the client. We serve them halwa and chicken soup during and after the bath. This is an integral part of this therapeutic process.”

Necessary steps

There are separate sections for men and women at the hamam. Waterworks and amenities have functioned well in both portions for many years.

“There are gas heaters underneath the floor which create a humid atmosphere inside the bath,” Ishaq says. “There is a water tank inside the bath as well for them to pour on themselves in case they cannot bear the heat.”

Ishaq says the average time for each bath is 30 minutes.

“After this, customers wash themselves with hot water and then cool themselves before leaving,” he adds.

Healing power

The owner believes ritual bathing is both therapeutic and necessary these days.

“If a customer is suffers from aches and pains, we advise him to take baths in three consecutive days,” he explains. “He or she must also avoid cold beverages for at least 15 days to complete the therapy.”

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I have been to Qissa Khwanin Bazar but have never seen this thing ...Peshawar is full of surprises though !
 
Wow these old traditions must be preserved :). Thanks for sharing
 
Time for u to visit peshawar again!!
Don't like it after the APS massacre...Even though I grew up in Peshawar in a way ...Have studied from Edwarde's College ...love Peshawar more than any city ...But I see it now as if it is 'cursed' ...!
 
Don't like it after the APS massacre...Even though I grew up in Peshawar in a way ...Have studied from Edwarde's College ...love Peshawar more than any city ...But I see it now as if it is 'cursed' ...!
Ohi think ihave heard of edwardes college , its an elite school.
Yes Aps nahi bhoolta, and bhoolnay dena bhi nahi chaheay. When one gets such slap on their face such as Aps one ,then you have to be the most sans self respect, ego and shame human to forget that pain and humiliation.
 
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Ohi think ihave heard of edwardes college , its an elite school.
Yes Aps nahi bhoolta, and bhoolnay dena bhi nahi chaheay. When one gets such slaps on their face such as Aps one ,you have to be the most sans self respect, ego and shame human to forget that pain and humiliation.
I visited Peshawar twice after the APS tragedy and every time it my mind was occupied with those innocent faces ...Yes ...Edwardes is an elite education system ...it's older than Islamia College as well ...it was founded in 1900...I graduated with honor ...my name is still there on the honor board ...!
 
Hamam is really good and would recommend people trying it. Make sure you have your aura covered; area around the belly button and waist all the way down to your knees. Wear a lungi.

We had to report one animal who was completely naked and said, ''we are men''! Jahil!
 
Oh thats cool. Seems like we got a tall glass of water on pdf.
I wish I could share the fond memories of my college days ...Those golden days ...

This is Senior's Hostel in Edwardes and to the extreme left was my cubicle room ...it used to be allotted under a strict merit system !
557407_708347602525026_119641403_n.jpg
558360_419689621401513_1261076971_n.jpg
 
I wish I could share the fond memories of my college days ...Those golden days ...

This is Senior's Hostel in Edwardes and to the extreme left was my cubicle room ...it used to be allotted under a strict merit system !View attachment 233503 View attachment 233504
This a very beautiful structure and scenic place or maybe work of great photography and digital enhancement lolzz but truly scenic. Thanks for sharing.
 
This a very beautiful structure and scenic place or maybe work of great photography and digital enhancement lolzz but truly scenic. Thanks for sharing.
It's 115 years old building ...It is very much beautiful and scenic ...!
 

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