LOL! No, definitely no need to do that, thank God! Even though I've changed engines (mostly V-8s) in the past and it's a PITA but not a huge deal, the older you get, the less you find yourself looking to do these kinds of project loool. And there's no need at all. The boat's engine is a marine engine Volvo Penta 8.1 Gi-J. Sounds fantastic and almost just like a muscle car. Plus it's naturally cooled instead of a closed cooling system with anti-freeze. It has a special impeller that pulls sea water and circulates that through the block and all other necessary items before quenching and exiting the exhaust. So it wouldn't work in a car without extensive modification and it's probably a bit too big to fit the TA.
That small pedal for the sump pump float switch is spring-loaded, Ant. So it doesn't bounce around with the boat movements etc. The spring has just enough force to keep it down and not flopping but not enough to counter water level rising. When I check it to see if it's working alright during daily checks before we go out, I just lift it with one finger and make the connection.
The TA has it's own LS-1 and interestingly enough, because of low miles, I had an engine light come on about a year ago and so one weekend my son and I decided to take a look and things led us to under the intake manifold only to discover the intake bed plate was completely corroded!!! Couldn't believe it as it's pretty rare for something like this to happen. It basically turned to dust! Ever see anything like this?
I had to get online and look for a while to find a new replacement and it was one of the toughest things I've ever had to look for. Finally I went to my buddy's garage and he was able to find one for me. I had to clean it out and vacuum everything and be sure nothing went into the cylinders etc. The plate was 1/2" thick aluminum and to see this level of corrosion was insane. The only symptoms I had was an engine light because the O2 sensor finally got stuffed with dust from this stuff and the engine code was reading a faulty O2 sensor. So to get to it, you basically had to take off the intake manifold to get to the sensor and then baddabing! lol. My son was like "wuuuut the f--------!" lol
Once we cleaned it out enough to get a new O2 sensor in and the new plate bolted back on, there was more dust that came out from nooks and crannies that I had to vacuum a lot more and use blowing compressed air to remove as much of the dust that I couldn't reach.
It was a bit of a PITA but the intake manifold being plastic actually made things a bit easier than if it was aluminum since that might have attracted some of that corrosion and made it a much bigger operation than it already was. Then I put everything else back together and took advantage of the opportunity to clean the throttle body. It's amazing how this is really something that should be done a lot more frequently.
And clean the K&N filter at the same time. I'm sure you know those things have to be washed and oiled!
Same with forcing people to wear masks, no? I mean even if we all know that it's the best thing to do and should be done, there's a major conflict with the constitution when it comes to that and if I'm not mistaken, even under a pandemic situation, there are some legal steps that the govntms need to go through -- primarily passing a bill to put it into law -- that makes it mandatory law to wear masks, just like they had to go through to make seat belts mandatory.
Nice. Funny because when we were exavating for the foundation on our addition in the back, I dug enough to make a basement workshop and ran into the water table but the good thing is that with all that diggind, we discovered an old, abandoned pipe that led to the original cesspool for the house LOL! So I stuck the piping for the sump pum to flow into that. It's been 20 years or so and Alhamdulilah so far so good!
The workshop/studio is probably around a foot, maybe a foot and a half below the water table, and so the sump-pump bucket is always full 3/4 of the way and placement of the pump is critical so that it's not pumping all the time. I installed perforated drain pipes around the perimeter and right down the middle (20'x20') all going to the sump bucket before I poured the concrete for the floor slab so the water that comes up, gets right into those pipes from all the perforation in them and straight into the bucket before they reach the radiant heating tubes. But even if they do get to the tubes, those are made out of heavy plastic so I doubt they'll ever be compromised by any moisture. But it is scary when the power goes out for any length of time as it doesn't take long for the water to overflow during certain times of the year, particularly end of winter/early spring when all the grounds are thawing out and adding to the water table level.