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Snow Adventures in Pakistan.

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1975 Press Photo Members of the American Mountaineering in Rawalpindi.
 
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Photograph of K2 from Windy Gap, taken by Vittorio Sella in 1909.

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Vittorio Sella (28 August 1859 - 12 August 1943) was an Italian photographer and mountaineer, whose photographs of mountains are regarded as some of the finest ever made.

Sella was born in Biella in the foothills of the Alps and acquired his interest in Alpinism from his uncle, Quintino Sella. He made a number of significant climbs in the Alps, including the first winter ascents of the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa, and the first winter traverse of Mont Blanc.

He took part in several expeditions further afield, including three to the Caucasus (where a peak now bears his name), to Mount Saint Elias in Alaska, to the Rwenzori in Africa, and the 1909 expedition to K2 and the Karakoram.

The latter three expeditions were in the company of Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi. Sella continued to climb into his old age, and made his last attempt on the Matterhorn at seventy six. The attempt failed when one of his guides was injured in an accident.

The high quality of Sella's photography was in part due to his use of 30×40 cm photographic plates, in spite of the difficulty of carrying bulky and fragile equipment into remote places. He had to invent equipment, including modified pack saddles and rucksacks, to allow these particularly large glass plates to be transported safely.

His photographs were widely published and exhibited, and highly praised; Ansel Adams, who saw thirty-one that Sella had presented to the US Sierra Club, said they inspired "a definitely religious awe". Many of the photographs he took were of mountains which had not been previously recorded and so have historical as well as artistic significance; for example by recording the retreat of glaciers in the Rwenzori mountains in Central Africa.

Sella died in Biella in 1943. His collection of photographs is now managed by the Sella Foundation (Fondazione Sella) in Biella. Some pictures of Sella are exhibited in the Museo Nazionale della Montagna "Duca degli Abruzzi" in Turin. Some of his photographs of the Rwenzori mountains are owned by Makerere University in Kampala, Uganda.


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https://americanalpineclub.org/.../k2-1938-the-first...

© Vittorio Sella / American Alpine Club


It seems K2 had more solid ice back in 1909 at the vary top, then it has now.
 
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July 1979

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Captain Sher Khan of Hunza, commanding a joint Polish-Pakistani expedition that summited the Rakaposhi (7,788m).
This was only the second successful summit of the mountain -
Tthe first one being done back in 1958, by a expedition which included Shah Khan himself!
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Colonel (retd.) Sher Khan, 'farzand' of the late Group Captain Shah Khan, and an avid mountaineer too, having summited the peaks of Nanga Parbat and Rakaposhi.
An armoured corps officer, he's seen here as the Commandant of the President's Bodyguard -
What a mesmerizing outfit!
 
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Koz Sar (6677m) from a high camp on the Ishkoman side of the Chilinji An in the Karakoram, Pakistan. August 1994.


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Steve Razzetti - Photographer
MtSpadrggchona sondri1a1ifed ·

Memories! Here's a shot taken by Nick Groves on our 1988 Shimshal - Lukpe La trip in Pakistan. We will never forget that day! A whole day spent picking our way across kilometres of really gnarly glacier only to discover we'd made a route-finding error and had to go back. On the rope (my 100m 8.8mm rope!) front to back are Shambi Khan, Daulat Khazi, Fazil Baig, Tafat Shah, myself and Mike Searle.


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Masherbrum (K1)
Pakistan's 9th and world's 22nd highest peak.
Altitude: 7,821 Metres


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After becoming the youngest Pakistani to summit Mount Everest in May, Shahroz Kashif has today summited K2 & is also now the Youngest in the WORLD to scale the K2 , takes great pride in our sons who continue to impress the world with their sheer will & determination.

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After becoming the youngest Pakistani to summit Mount Everest in May, Shahroz Kashif has today summited K2 & is also now the Youngest in the WORLD to scale the K2 , takes great pride in our sons who continue to impress the world with their sheer will & determination.

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This also makes him the youngest person to have summitted both K2 and Everest. He is also the youngest ever to have summitted Broad Peak at 17, hence his nickname 'Broad Boy'. Age limit debates aside, he won't be for too long if this little one makes it.

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The Hushe team of Ali Durani, Muhammad Hassan Hushe, Mushtaq Ahmad, and Usuf Meeri has summitted as well.


Time we take our rightful place in the mountaineering world. Insha' Allah.
 
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Achille Compagnoni (left) and Lino Lacedelli at K2 base camp, August 1954.


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Italian Karakoram expedition to K2 First successful attempt to climb second-highest mountain on Earth.

On 31 July 1954, Italian climbers Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli became the first persons to reach the summit of K2, the second highest mountain in the world after Mount Everest, which had been summited for the first time the previous year. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio.
 
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