Featured Pakistan: The Archaeological Marvel
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Archaeological site unearthed after ‘heritage’ building is razed in Hyderabad
HYDERABAD:
An 18th or 19th century structure, bordering late 18th century harem of Talpur Dynasty, is believed to be buried underneath a demolished building, known as heritage architecture, inside Pucca Qila, Hyderabad. The demolition earlier also drew condemnation by several experts of archaeology and former officials of the department.
The remains consist of around four-feet-wide walls made of small bricks. The portions of these several walls are scattered around the site. The walls surfaced during digging work at the site by Sindh Culture, Tourism and Antiquities Department that had planned to construct a new building for a museum.
However, after the discovery of the structure, the digging has been halted. “We have asked the department’s experts to determine whether the walls were built during the Kalhoro or Talpur dynasties,” the department’s secretary, Akbar Laghari, told The Express Tribune.
The corroded walls of the harem are also of the same size and they are built with identical bricks as well. “We will consult experts from the department about how to make good use of this place,” said Laghari when asked whether the department will abort the plan of constructing a new building for the planned museum.
He ruled out the possibility that old walls would be razed for the construction of the new building. “I think it [the underlying walls] is so strong that a new structure can be built over it.” However, the secretary said the walls can also be preserved like parts of the fallen Berlin Wall in Germany. Laghari said the walls’ study will not take long and his department’s experts will be able to determine the nature of architecture in few days.
Controversial demolition
The Pucca Qila in Hyderabad, a fort built by a ruler of the Kalhora Dynasty, Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro in mid-18th century, is among the hapless archaeological sites in Sindh which have been allowed to decay. For several decades, apathy of the antiquities department and encroachment by tens of thousands of people has together contributed to the fort’s degeneration.
The recent demolition of the building, which has been documented as the ‘old offices of Mirs’ in the book ‘Inventory of Cultural Property in the Province of Sindh’, edited by Yasmeen Lari and Michael Jensen, has aggravated the decadence. Many other experts also assert, unlike the department’s secretary who says it was built in 1960s, that the building was part of the heritage.
“A complex of five spacious chambers is situated east of [the] harem. The halls were meant for offices of the Mirs and their treasury,” states the book. Later during the British period, the building was used as the land record office and it was converted into a museum in the 1960s. The museum was looted and set on fire in 1987 during a riot involving some religious persons.
Both the harem and the building remained in possession of the Rangers and later police during the ethnic riots of late 1980s and 1990s. A police station was also later built in its premises. The book notes that the mosaic flooring was laid and the walls were whitewashed besides other renovation works by the people who occupied it.
The department’s secretary, meanwhile, claimed that the building was constructed in the 1960s for the museum. “Let me clarify again it wasn’t a heritage building,” he emphasised pointing out that the demolition was approved and initiated in 2016. According to him, the structure remained idle since it was set ablaze around three decades ago.
“The officials who approved the demolition should be booked for this crime,” said a former archaeology director Shahzore Tayabani while talking to The Express Tribune. According to Sindh Cultural Heritage Act, a person who destroys, damages, alters or defaces a heritage structure is punishable with up to three years imprisonment and Rs100,000 fine.
Exploration: DoAM awaits funds to resume survey of archeological sites
Tayabani, who has worked on Pucca Qila’s preservation projects before his retirement in 2012, contended that the department’s officials are lying about the demolished structure’s status. “We always used to complain when archaeology department was under the federal government. But since the devolution, the Sindh government has been performing worse when it comes to preservation.”
Another former director Qasim Ali Qasim deplored that the razed structure is located next to the department’s regional office in Hyderabad and yet no one bothered to oppose the official move of razing it to the ground. “There were cellars in that building where Talpur rulers used to store their treasure owing to which it was also called the treasury building.”
Qasim also demanded that the officers who approved the demolition should be identified and booked in the FIR. Naheed Zehra and Fateh Shaikh, both the serving directors of the department, said it was decided that a similar structure will be built in place of the razed one.
https://tribune.com.pk/story/1941797/1-archaeological-site-unearthed-heritage-building-razed/
HYDERABAD:
An 18th or 19th century structure, bordering late 18th century harem of Talpur Dynasty, is believed to be buried underneath a demolished building, known as heritage architecture, inside Pucca Qila, Hyderabad. The demolition earlier also drew condemnation by several experts of archaeology and former officials of the department.
The remains consist of around four-feet-wide walls made of small bricks. The portions of these several walls are scattered around the site. The walls surfaced during digging work at the site by Sindh Culture, Tourism and Antiquities Department that had planned to construct a new building for a museum.
However, after the discovery of the structure, the digging has been halted. “We have asked the department’s experts to determine whether the walls were built during the Kalhoro or Talpur dynasties,” the department’s secretary, Akbar Laghari, told The Express Tribune.
The corroded walls of the harem are also of the same size and they are built with identical bricks as well. “We will consult experts from the department about how to make good use of this place,” said Laghari when asked whether the department will abort the plan of constructing a new building for the planned museum.
He ruled out the possibility that old walls would be razed for the construction of the new building. “I think it [the underlying walls] is so strong that a new structure can be built over it.” However, the secretary said the walls can also be preserved like parts of the fallen Berlin Wall in Germany. Laghari said the walls’ study will not take long and his department’s experts will be able to determine the nature of architecture in few days.
Controversial demolition
The Pucca Qila in Hyderabad, a fort built by a ruler of the Kalhora Dynasty, Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro in mid-18th century, is among the hapless archaeological sites in Sindh which have been allowed to decay. For several decades, apathy of the antiquities department and encroachment by tens of thousands of people has together contributed to the fort’s degeneration.
The recent demolition of the building, which has been documented as the ‘old offices of Mirs’ in the book ‘Inventory of Cultural Property in the Province of Sindh’, edited by Yasmeen Lari and Michael Jensen, has aggravated the decadence. Many other experts also assert, unlike the department’s secretary who says it was built in 1960s, that the building was part of the heritage.
“A complex of five spacious chambers is situated east of [the] harem. The halls were meant for offices of the Mirs and their treasury,” states the book. Later during the British period, the building was used as the land record office and it was converted into a museum in the 1960s. The museum was looted and set on fire in 1987 during a riot involving some religious persons.
Both the harem and the building remained in possession of the Rangers and later police during the ethnic riots of late 1980s and 1990s. A police station was also later built in its premises. The book notes that the mosaic flooring was laid and the walls were whitewashed besides other renovation works by the people who occupied it.
The department’s secretary, meanwhile, claimed that the building was constructed in the 1960s for the museum. “Let me clarify again it wasn’t a heritage building,” he emphasised pointing out that the demolition was approved and initiated in 2016. According to him, the structure remained idle since it was set ablaze around three decades ago.
“The officials who approved the demolition should be booked for this crime,” said a former archaeology director Shahzore Tayabani while talking to The Express Tribune. According to Sindh Cultural Heritage Act, a person who destroys, damages, alters or defaces a heritage structure is punishable with up to three years imprisonment and Rs100,000 fine.
Exploration: DoAM awaits funds to resume survey of archeological sites
Tayabani, who has worked on Pucca Qila’s preservation projects before his retirement in 2012, contended that the department’s officials are lying about the demolished structure’s status. “We always used to complain when archaeology department was under the federal government. But since the devolution, the Sindh government has been performing worse when it comes to preservation.”
Another former director Qasim Ali Qasim deplored that the razed structure is located next to the department’s regional office in Hyderabad and yet no one bothered to oppose the official move of razing it to the ground. “There were cellars in that building where Talpur rulers used to store their treasure owing to which it was also called the treasury building.”
Qasim also demanded that the officers who approved the demolition should be identified and booked in the FIR. Naheed Zehra and Fateh Shaikh, both the serving directors of the department, said it was decided that a similar structure will be built in place of the razed one.
https://tribune.com.pk/story/1941797/1-archaeological-site-unearthed-heritage-building-razed/
Kambojaric
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The glorious history of the Wazir Khan Mosque
If a person is talented, hardworking and on top of that fortunate as well at many levels, then such a person shines like a bright, dazzling star on the horizons of history.
One such luminary is Sheikh Ilmuddin Ansari. He was born in a well-educated family of Chiniot during the era of Emperor Jahangir. His father’s name was Sheikh Abdul Latif and his grandfather was Sheikh Hassamuddin. Both of them were highly reputed and well respected in the city. He was taught philosophy, Arabic and Persian at home. He studied Hikmat (the art of medicine) under the tutelage of Hakim Da’vi and according to some accounts, Hakim Ra’vi. He became a well reputed and a renowned hakeem (physician). His reputation as a hakeem who could cure incurable diseases spread far and wide.
Hakim Ilmuddin eventually moved from Chiniot to Lahore in order to try his luck. Later on, he went to Delhi. After staying there for a short while, he moved from Delhi to Akbarabad. Both these cities were a hub of power and opportunity. Times changed and he got access to the Mughal Court. His association with Prince Khurram kept growing and as a result, he was bestowed with many royal honours.
In this regard, following is an excerpt from Naqoosh Lahore (Pg 802):
“Hakim Ilmuddin went to Delhi after a short stay in Lahore. Failing to find employment there, he moved to Agra and there his matab (clinic) gained fame in a short span of time.”
Syed Muhammad Latif in his book Lahore – It’s History, Architectural Remains & Antiquities, (Pg 61, 62) writes about this time period in the life of Hakim Ilmuddin:
“His accomplishments, as a physician, attracted the attention of Shah Jahan and in a short time, he made himself familiar with the temper and disposition of the emperor, the royal princes and the ladies of the harem. He was first appointed Dewan-e-bayutat(Superintendent of Households)and then Mir Saman or superintendent of the Royal Kitchen, from which post he was soon promoted to the office of the Dewan.”
Wazir Khan was very loyal to Prince Khurram who in turn held him in high regard. He was so devoted that during the tussle between Jahangir and Shah Jahan, he sided with the latter.
Some historians have recorded a very interesting anecdote regarding his access to the Court of the Emperor Jahangir. According to these accounts the favorite and most beloved wife of Emperor Jahangir, Noor Jahan, developed a cyst in her foot. The Empress didn’t want the cyst to be operated upon. The problem kept aggravating but Noor adamantly refused to get the surgery. Numerous expert physicians were called to cure the disease without resorting to surgery but the problem persisted. Prince Khurram referred Hakim IlmUd Din. He was called to the royal court for the treatment. He asked for hot desert sand to be spread in a room, the Empress was requested to move on the sand bare-feet. As the queen walked on the sand, her footprints left their marks. IlmUd Din figured out the exact place of the cyst and placed small sharp blades. Noor Jahan was requested to walk on her footsteps again and so the cyst opened up and the puss got drained without her even knowing about it and without suffering any pain. The burning hot sand healed the wound. The Empress was so overjoyed by this ingenious mode of treatment that she presented Hakim IlmUd Din with all the jewelry that she was wearing at that time, as a sign of gratitude. Her servants and slave girls also followed suit and offered their jewelry as well. This offering was worth Rs. 22 lakhs at that time.
Hakim IlmUd Din had made a Man’nat (a sacred vow). Making use of this enormous wealth, he constructed a majestic mosque, Masjid Wazir Khan, in the centre of the Lahore to fulfill his vow.
Wazir Khan’s relationship with Prince Khurram kept growing. In the last years of Jahangir’s life, the tussle for Mughal throne started between Noor Jahan and Prince Khurram. Noor Jahan wanted Prince Shehryar who was the husband of her only daughter, Ladli Begum and step brother of Prince Khurrram, to ascend the throne. In this war for the Mughal Throne Noor Jahan’s brother Asif Jah, who was also father to Prince Khurrram’s favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, sided with his son in law against his sister. Prince Khurram rebelled and lost. He was forgiven but was imprisoned. Hakeem IlmUd Din was appointed as his physician. He convinced Hakeem IlmUd Din to liberate the prince from imprisonment and accompany him to Deccan. On the way, the news of Jahangir’s death, who was returning from Kashmir to Lahore, reached them and they returned. After the ensuing palace intrigues and conspiracies, Prince Khurram emerged victorious and ascended the throne as Shah Jahan, the fifth Emperor of Mughal Empire. After his accession to the throne Hakeem IlmUd Din was given the title of Wazir Khan and to this day he is known by this name. He was also appointed Governor of Punjab.
Just like Shah Jahan, Wazir Khan had a keen interest in architecture and built numerous remarkable buildings in Lahore, Chiniot and even in Agra. He is credited with settling the city of Wazir Abad. SamanBurj near Palkunwala, is one of those monuments that turned the area of Raj Ghats, into Wazir Abad. In Lahore, He constructed Nawab Wazir Khan Mosque and ShahiHamam (The royal Bath). Adjacent to the Bath he built a Saray (hotel) and a garden called Bagh e Nakhliseya (The Garden of Dates). The Punjab Public Library now stands where once the garden flourished. In vicinity of ShahiTaksali, Lahore, he built a palace for the women of his household. A small yet beautiful mosque was also constructed near the palace in MohallahSamiyan. The mosque was named as Masjid NawabWazeer Khan, Khurd. This mosque is mentioned in Naqoosh Lahore (pg.556) thus;
‘This ancient styled small mosque is situated to the south of Taksali Gate, in Bazar Samiyan. In the Shah Jahan era, Nawab Wazir Khan Governor of Lahore Province constructed his Zenana Mahal (Palace for the women of his household) here, which doesn’t exist anymore’.
A path linked the palace with the mosque and the women from the palace used to pray in the mosque. The remains of this palace endured for a long time during the Sikh Era. The British, later on, leveled this place.
After creation of Pakistan, especially in the 60s, a trend of renaming the old cities and historic places started. This tendency took stronger hold in Lahore where old buildings, localities, parks, Hindu properties and many such places were renamed due to political and religious pressures. This renaming has made the task of discovering and identifying ancient historic places extremely complex. I had to spend many a restless and laborious days looking for Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd. I visited MohallahSamiyan, innumerable times, trying to find this mosque and almost every time I found myself standing at MiyanYaseenWal mosque. According to the reference books, this had to be Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd but the ignorance of the local people and even that of the administrators, regarding the history of this mosque, created a huge problem. They all referred to this mosque as Masjid MiyanYaseenWali. God bless Khalid Behzad Hashmi, who wrote a detailed article about this mosque in the newspaper, ‘NIWA E WAQT’ (11th Feb., 2011). Following is an excerpt of the article;
‘As we enter Bazar Sheikhupuriyan from Taksali Gate, to the left, we find Masjid Abdullah Kabli (Taksalikioanchi Masjid the high mosque of Taksali). Towards the right, a stone’s throw away, Pakistan talkies is situated. Around ten shops down in the same lane, on the right hand, Bazar ThathiMlahan inner Taksali Gate starts. The old buildings of this area and their architecture compel one to stop. On this very same road, towards the right, lies the famous historic mosque, Masjid ThathiMlahan. It is on the elevation of almost eight steps from the road. Its new name is Masjid HanfiyahRizviyah, and this is the name that people know it with now. A short distance away in ChowkMohallahSamiyan, Nawab Wazir Khan’s small mosque is situated which is now called Maulana Ghulam YaseenWali Masjid. Even the Archeology Department and Auqaf Department, let alone the locals or laymen, are unaware of its location. Around a century ago, this historic mosque was revamped by Maulana Ghulam Yaseen and that is why it is being called after his name, although its original name ‘Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd’ should have prevailed.’
At present there are two approaches to the Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd. One route makes use of the Taksali Gate, which has been mentioned in detail in the reference cited from Mr. Khalid Behzad’s article. The other one is from Bhati Gate. The city wall adjacent to the gate, houses the building of Bhati Police Station as well. A short distance from this, another old and famous mosque called Uchimaseet (laal masjid) is situated. Next to it and quite close by, there is a street called Gali Noor Muhammad. The street curves like a crescent and reaches the mosque. In this same street, the building of Ghulam Fatima Trust is situated. Farther ahead, there is another famous street, ‘SeerihyanWaliGali’.
Another landmark of this area is the home of renowned and respected old political worker, Mai Gulabo. Her given name is Shamim. She is more than eighty years old and had started her political struggles from the platform of Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto’s Peoples Party. She remained affiliated with the party for a considerable length of time. A few years ago she joined Pakistan Muslim League N. From the magnificent mosque that was constructed for the women of Wazir Khan’s household to the humble abode of a female political worker who dedicated her life for political struggle, the distance is short but the journey encompasses centuries. After her house, MohallahSamiyan, starts. Right at the start of this locality we find a mausoleum that goes by the name of Rehmat Ali QadrTertosi. A few steps away there is a tomb of another revered saint, HazratMasoom Shah. Once in this same place there were two ancient wells that the locals used to call, Khari khoee. A short distance away lays another ancient street called Jindal Kathal. Moving on we reach ChowkUmer Farooq (RA). This whole area is known as Bazar Samiyan. Further ahead we find another historical gem- Gali Justice Lateef Mohallah- which is a street named after Justice Syad Muhamad Latif. During the British era, Syad Muhamad Latif wrote many authentic books including History of Lahore, History of Punjab and History of Agra. There is an enclosure that is known by his name in the Miyani Sahib graveyard which is his final resting place. The graves of his other family members are also in the same enclosure.
The famous Tabla maestro, UstadTafu’s house is also situated in the very start of Justice Lateef Mohallah. There is also an old Kat’rri (small dwelling) here, a plaque of British era tells that this place belonged to a Rani (queen) of some foregone times. These days this area is known as Kat’rriPananWali. There is another ancient Kat’rri nearby that is associated with the name of ShababUd Din. It is said that the ownership of this area belongs to Wilayat Begum. A path leads from this place to Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd. From the mosque this path leads to ThathiMalahan and onwards to Bazar Sheikhutoriyan.
Mr Khalid Behzad says in his article about Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd says,
‘This mosque was also adorned with marble and lacquered inlaid tile work like ‘Masjid Wazir Khan’ but it was completely altered’
He further goes on to say,
‘The view from the roof at the mosque is captivating. On the other side of the roof of the veranda, the three double-domes are valiantly failing to hide their imposing splendor. Their loneliness and deprecation through the ravages of time is heartbreaking. I thought as if they are saying, ‘finally, you have come!’
These domes are double layered and constructed like those of Masjid Maryam Zamani (Begum Shahi Masjid). The inner layer provides ceiling to the interior of building. The outer layer is the one that crowns the building. The space between the two layers was filled with inverted backed clay pots and a small opening was left. Once the outer layer is complete the pots were removed through this opening. In some areas they are left inside. These three glorious domes are now helplessly surrounded by rising houses on three sides and are awaiting the attention of both the Archeology and Auqaf Departments.
There is a huge decrepit arched gateway under the ceiling towards the right side. This vaulted threshold of the mosque isn’t visible from the street outside because the facade is hidden behind a wall made of bricks and cement. This part of the Nawab Wazir Khan’s mosque for his Heram is in ruins. It’s full of trash and debris. The soaring central arch, flanked by square and rectangular compartment which at one time were adorned with glazed, inlaid pottery work like Masjid Wazir Khan, is covered with wild overgrown shrubs and weeds. In spite of the present dilapidated condition, this vaulted entrance bears testimony to its glorious past.
At present Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd, is but a shadow of its former glory. When Mr. Khalid Behzad wrote his article, there were still some decorative motifs left on the inner walls of the mosque. The doors and overhanging enclosed balconies that were mentioned in that article could still have been seen in their glory, at that time. Now things have changed drastically. The original architecture is vanishing due to the extension work that has been carried out. Along with three main domes some parts of original central wall still remain that are decorated with calligraphy in Persian style work known as Kashi Kari. The living quarters of the Imam Sahib were constructed on the first floor, that have obscured the view of even this trace of the past glory, and the visitors could hardly catch a glimpse of elegant calligraphy. On the left side of the main entrance, a new hall had been constructed. Towards the right, alongside the old Hamam (Bath) the remnants of old walls can still be seen. Khalid Behzad had mentioned this Hamam (Bath) and the other old remains, in these words,
‘One can judge the strength of the structure of this historical mosque form the fact that it’s Hamam (Bath) is in working condition even today and the people of the area still benefit from it. This historical place now houses the shop of Zahoorhajjam (barber) that has a wooden door.’
This mosque associated with the name of Maulana Muhammad Yaseen had several Imams after him. Abdul Ghani Sahib, Zareef Sahib and Qari Muhammad Mazhar Sahib son of Mufti Ghulam Jan Qadri Sahib are names of some of Maulana Muhammad Yaseen’s successors.
Presently, Lahore is losing its distinct cultural heritage and character in the name of hollow, meaningless development and a proliferation of roads. The Archaeology Department and the Auqaf Department not only have a perennial lack of funds but the staff is also untrained and ill equipped to properly preserve and care for the historical landmarks that are our heritage. Due to negligence of the concerned departments, Masjid Wazir Khan and many other relics of our cultural legacy are vanishing right before our very eyes. We’re still lucky to have seen some of the grace and beauty of the architectural gems that dot the landscape of Lahore. The question is what will our children see?
https://dailytimes.com.pk/376862/the-glorious-history-of-the-wazir-khan-mosque/
Some pics of Wazir Khan mosque:
If a person is talented, hardworking and on top of that fortunate as well at many levels, then such a person shines like a bright, dazzling star on the horizons of history.
One such luminary is Sheikh Ilmuddin Ansari. He was born in a well-educated family of Chiniot during the era of Emperor Jahangir. His father’s name was Sheikh Abdul Latif and his grandfather was Sheikh Hassamuddin. Both of them were highly reputed and well respected in the city. He was taught philosophy, Arabic and Persian at home. He studied Hikmat (the art of medicine) under the tutelage of Hakim Da’vi and according to some accounts, Hakim Ra’vi. He became a well reputed and a renowned hakeem (physician). His reputation as a hakeem who could cure incurable diseases spread far and wide.
Hakim Ilmuddin eventually moved from Chiniot to Lahore in order to try his luck. Later on, he went to Delhi. After staying there for a short while, he moved from Delhi to Akbarabad. Both these cities were a hub of power and opportunity. Times changed and he got access to the Mughal Court. His association with Prince Khurram kept growing and as a result, he was bestowed with many royal honours.
In this regard, following is an excerpt from Naqoosh Lahore (Pg 802):
“Hakim Ilmuddin went to Delhi after a short stay in Lahore. Failing to find employment there, he moved to Agra and there his matab (clinic) gained fame in a short span of time.”
Syed Muhammad Latif in his book Lahore – It’s History, Architectural Remains & Antiquities, (Pg 61, 62) writes about this time period in the life of Hakim Ilmuddin:
“His accomplishments, as a physician, attracted the attention of Shah Jahan and in a short time, he made himself familiar with the temper and disposition of the emperor, the royal princes and the ladies of the harem. He was first appointed Dewan-e-bayutat(Superintendent of Households)and then Mir Saman or superintendent of the Royal Kitchen, from which post he was soon promoted to the office of the Dewan.”
Wazir Khan was very loyal to Prince Khurram who in turn held him in high regard. He was so devoted that during the tussle between Jahangir and Shah Jahan, he sided with the latter.
Some historians have recorded a very interesting anecdote regarding his access to the Court of the Emperor Jahangir. According to these accounts the favorite and most beloved wife of Emperor Jahangir, Noor Jahan, developed a cyst in her foot. The Empress didn’t want the cyst to be operated upon. The problem kept aggravating but Noor adamantly refused to get the surgery. Numerous expert physicians were called to cure the disease without resorting to surgery but the problem persisted. Prince Khurram referred Hakim IlmUd Din. He was called to the royal court for the treatment. He asked for hot desert sand to be spread in a room, the Empress was requested to move on the sand bare-feet. As the queen walked on the sand, her footprints left their marks. IlmUd Din figured out the exact place of the cyst and placed small sharp blades. Noor Jahan was requested to walk on her footsteps again and so the cyst opened up and the puss got drained without her even knowing about it and without suffering any pain. The burning hot sand healed the wound. The Empress was so overjoyed by this ingenious mode of treatment that she presented Hakim IlmUd Din with all the jewelry that she was wearing at that time, as a sign of gratitude. Her servants and slave girls also followed suit and offered their jewelry as well. This offering was worth Rs. 22 lakhs at that time.
Hakim IlmUd Din had made a Man’nat (a sacred vow). Making use of this enormous wealth, he constructed a majestic mosque, Masjid Wazir Khan, in the centre of the Lahore to fulfill his vow.
Wazir Khan’s relationship with Prince Khurram kept growing. In the last years of Jahangir’s life, the tussle for Mughal throne started between Noor Jahan and Prince Khurram. Noor Jahan wanted Prince Shehryar who was the husband of her only daughter, Ladli Begum and step brother of Prince Khurrram, to ascend the throne. In this war for the Mughal Throne Noor Jahan’s brother Asif Jah, who was also father to Prince Khurrram’s favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, sided with his son in law against his sister. Prince Khurram rebelled and lost. He was forgiven but was imprisoned. Hakeem IlmUd Din was appointed as his physician. He convinced Hakeem IlmUd Din to liberate the prince from imprisonment and accompany him to Deccan. On the way, the news of Jahangir’s death, who was returning from Kashmir to Lahore, reached them and they returned. After the ensuing palace intrigues and conspiracies, Prince Khurram emerged victorious and ascended the throne as Shah Jahan, the fifth Emperor of Mughal Empire. After his accession to the throne Hakeem IlmUd Din was given the title of Wazir Khan and to this day he is known by this name. He was also appointed Governor of Punjab.
Just like Shah Jahan, Wazir Khan had a keen interest in architecture and built numerous remarkable buildings in Lahore, Chiniot and even in Agra. He is credited with settling the city of Wazir Abad. SamanBurj near Palkunwala, is one of those monuments that turned the area of Raj Ghats, into Wazir Abad. In Lahore, He constructed Nawab Wazir Khan Mosque and ShahiHamam (The royal Bath). Adjacent to the Bath he built a Saray (hotel) and a garden called Bagh e Nakhliseya (The Garden of Dates). The Punjab Public Library now stands where once the garden flourished. In vicinity of ShahiTaksali, Lahore, he built a palace for the women of his household. A small yet beautiful mosque was also constructed near the palace in MohallahSamiyan. The mosque was named as Masjid NawabWazeer Khan, Khurd. This mosque is mentioned in Naqoosh Lahore (pg.556) thus;
‘This ancient styled small mosque is situated to the south of Taksali Gate, in Bazar Samiyan. In the Shah Jahan era, Nawab Wazir Khan Governor of Lahore Province constructed his Zenana Mahal (Palace for the women of his household) here, which doesn’t exist anymore’.
A path linked the palace with the mosque and the women from the palace used to pray in the mosque. The remains of this palace endured for a long time during the Sikh Era. The British, later on, leveled this place.
After creation of Pakistan, especially in the 60s, a trend of renaming the old cities and historic places started. This tendency took stronger hold in Lahore where old buildings, localities, parks, Hindu properties and many such places were renamed due to political and religious pressures. This renaming has made the task of discovering and identifying ancient historic places extremely complex. I had to spend many a restless and laborious days looking for Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd. I visited MohallahSamiyan, innumerable times, trying to find this mosque and almost every time I found myself standing at MiyanYaseenWal mosque. According to the reference books, this had to be Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd but the ignorance of the local people and even that of the administrators, regarding the history of this mosque, created a huge problem. They all referred to this mosque as Masjid MiyanYaseenWali. God bless Khalid Behzad Hashmi, who wrote a detailed article about this mosque in the newspaper, ‘NIWA E WAQT’ (11th Feb., 2011). Following is an excerpt of the article;
‘As we enter Bazar Sheikhupuriyan from Taksali Gate, to the left, we find Masjid Abdullah Kabli (Taksalikioanchi Masjid the high mosque of Taksali). Towards the right, a stone’s throw away, Pakistan talkies is situated. Around ten shops down in the same lane, on the right hand, Bazar ThathiMlahan inner Taksali Gate starts. The old buildings of this area and their architecture compel one to stop. On this very same road, towards the right, lies the famous historic mosque, Masjid ThathiMlahan. It is on the elevation of almost eight steps from the road. Its new name is Masjid HanfiyahRizviyah, and this is the name that people know it with now. A short distance away in ChowkMohallahSamiyan, Nawab Wazir Khan’s small mosque is situated which is now called Maulana Ghulam YaseenWali Masjid. Even the Archeology Department and Auqaf Department, let alone the locals or laymen, are unaware of its location. Around a century ago, this historic mosque was revamped by Maulana Ghulam Yaseen and that is why it is being called after his name, although its original name ‘Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd’ should have prevailed.’
At present there are two approaches to the Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd. One route makes use of the Taksali Gate, which has been mentioned in detail in the reference cited from Mr. Khalid Behzad’s article. The other one is from Bhati Gate. The city wall adjacent to the gate, houses the building of Bhati Police Station as well. A short distance from this, another old and famous mosque called Uchimaseet (laal masjid) is situated. Next to it and quite close by, there is a street called Gali Noor Muhammad. The street curves like a crescent and reaches the mosque. In this same street, the building of Ghulam Fatima Trust is situated. Farther ahead, there is another famous street, ‘SeerihyanWaliGali’.
Another landmark of this area is the home of renowned and respected old political worker, Mai Gulabo. Her given name is Shamim. She is more than eighty years old and had started her political struggles from the platform of Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto’s Peoples Party. She remained affiliated with the party for a considerable length of time. A few years ago she joined Pakistan Muslim League N. From the magnificent mosque that was constructed for the women of Wazir Khan’s household to the humble abode of a female political worker who dedicated her life for political struggle, the distance is short but the journey encompasses centuries. After her house, MohallahSamiyan, starts. Right at the start of this locality we find a mausoleum that goes by the name of Rehmat Ali QadrTertosi. A few steps away there is a tomb of another revered saint, HazratMasoom Shah. Once in this same place there were two ancient wells that the locals used to call, Khari khoee. A short distance away lays another ancient street called Jindal Kathal. Moving on we reach ChowkUmer Farooq (RA). This whole area is known as Bazar Samiyan. Further ahead we find another historical gem- Gali Justice Lateef Mohallah- which is a street named after Justice Syad Muhamad Latif. During the British era, Syad Muhamad Latif wrote many authentic books including History of Lahore, History of Punjab and History of Agra. There is an enclosure that is known by his name in the Miyani Sahib graveyard which is his final resting place. The graves of his other family members are also in the same enclosure.
The famous Tabla maestro, UstadTafu’s house is also situated in the very start of Justice Lateef Mohallah. There is also an old Kat’rri (small dwelling) here, a plaque of British era tells that this place belonged to a Rani (queen) of some foregone times. These days this area is known as Kat’rriPananWali. There is another ancient Kat’rri nearby that is associated with the name of ShababUd Din. It is said that the ownership of this area belongs to Wilayat Begum. A path leads from this place to Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd. From the mosque this path leads to ThathiMalahan and onwards to Bazar Sheikhutoriyan.
Mr Khalid Behzad says in his article about Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd says,
‘This mosque was also adorned with marble and lacquered inlaid tile work like ‘Masjid Wazir Khan’ but it was completely altered’
He further goes on to say,
‘The view from the roof at the mosque is captivating. On the other side of the roof of the veranda, the three double-domes are valiantly failing to hide their imposing splendor. Their loneliness and deprecation through the ravages of time is heartbreaking. I thought as if they are saying, ‘finally, you have come!’
These domes are double layered and constructed like those of Masjid Maryam Zamani (Begum Shahi Masjid). The inner layer provides ceiling to the interior of building. The outer layer is the one that crowns the building. The space between the two layers was filled with inverted backed clay pots and a small opening was left. Once the outer layer is complete the pots were removed through this opening. In some areas they are left inside. These three glorious domes are now helplessly surrounded by rising houses on three sides and are awaiting the attention of both the Archeology and Auqaf Departments.
There is a huge decrepit arched gateway under the ceiling towards the right side. This vaulted threshold of the mosque isn’t visible from the street outside because the facade is hidden behind a wall made of bricks and cement. This part of the Nawab Wazir Khan’s mosque for his Heram is in ruins. It’s full of trash and debris. The soaring central arch, flanked by square and rectangular compartment which at one time were adorned with glazed, inlaid pottery work like Masjid Wazir Khan, is covered with wild overgrown shrubs and weeds. In spite of the present dilapidated condition, this vaulted entrance bears testimony to its glorious past.
At present Masjid Wazir Khan Khurd, is but a shadow of its former glory. When Mr. Khalid Behzad wrote his article, there were still some decorative motifs left on the inner walls of the mosque. The doors and overhanging enclosed balconies that were mentioned in that article could still have been seen in their glory, at that time. Now things have changed drastically. The original architecture is vanishing due to the extension work that has been carried out. Along with three main domes some parts of original central wall still remain that are decorated with calligraphy in Persian style work known as Kashi Kari. The living quarters of the Imam Sahib were constructed on the first floor, that have obscured the view of even this trace of the past glory, and the visitors could hardly catch a glimpse of elegant calligraphy. On the left side of the main entrance, a new hall had been constructed. Towards the right, alongside the old Hamam (Bath) the remnants of old walls can still be seen. Khalid Behzad had mentioned this Hamam (Bath) and the other old remains, in these words,
‘One can judge the strength of the structure of this historical mosque form the fact that it’s Hamam (Bath) is in working condition even today and the people of the area still benefit from it. This historical place now houses the shop of Zahoorhajjam (barber) that has a wooden door.’
This mosque associated with the name of Maulana Muhammad Yaseen had several Imams after him. Abdul Ghani Sahib, Zareef Sahib and Qari Muhammad Mazhar Sahib son of Mufti Ghulam Jan Qadri Sahib are names of some of Maulana Muhammad Yaseen’s successors.
Presently, Lahore is losing its distinct cultural heritage and character in the name of hollow, meaningless development and a proliferation of roads. The Archaeology Department and the Auqaf Department not only have a perennial lack of funds but the staff is also untrained and ill equipped to properly preserve and care for the historical landmarks that are our heritage. Due to negligence of the concerned departments, Masjid Wazir Khan and many other relics of our cultural legacy are vanishing right before our very eyes. We’re still lucky to have seen some of the grace and beauty of the architectural gems that dot the landscape of Lahore. The question is what will our children see?
https://dailytimes.com.pk/376862/the-glorious-history-of-the-wazir-khan-mosque/
Some pics of Wazir Khan mosque:
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Reflecting on heritage
Nadeem Zuberi
April 15, 2019
Rida Fatima’s work was a reaction towards the demolition of hidden treasures of heritage sites in our country and she wanted viewers to contemplate the history of architecture in Mughal, Sikh and British periods, depicted in a solo show titled “Mirroring the Concrete” held at Mainframe Gallery, Karachi.
She draws on her own experiences while travelling through the city of Lahore.
She was fascinated to see the historical sites in the city but was disappointed to see the handling of these sites by the authorized people. Nobody seemed to care about the situation as was the case with historical sites affected by the Orange Line Metro Train construction so as a young painter and sculptor she decided to capture the historical buildings in her artworks for people to remember their actual images before the destruction of a city in the name of urban development.
“To me, it is not only the demise of architectural face of city, it is the deconstruction of the social fabric as well. It took generations to make the character of a city and it is being demolished with arrogance,” she said.
Lahore is one of the oldest cities of the world with the ancient ruins. She painted images of depilated red brick walls, doors, windows, fractured columns and balconies, thus she portrayed the facades of ruined or threatened buildings. The Lahore buildings were portrayed without foundation, there was no weight that binds them to the ground, no guarantee that their traces will remain for the years to come for future generations. In this sense, they appeared truly as memento.
Elaborating her work, Rida said, “Mirroring the concrete is a reflection of ephemeral world where human bodies exist and get attached to the remains of concrete. My art practice explores the intricate relationship between rural and urban sites with explicit attention to the urban development in which globalisation,
technology and materialism affect these two realms. I have been working on the constant cycle of construction and deconstruction which affect the infrastructure of human physical existence.”
Mostly she picked a small portion of a building to be captured in her artworks so that she can concentrate on details of the architecture and the story behind the walls. Her subject’s doors, windows, balconies, tiles and walls provided a peek in the past to the viewers.
Most of these works were created with conventional construction materials being used in Lahore for centuries. She employed wood and pigments to replicate wooden bricks and comes up with stunningly beautiful worn-out textures carrying the rustic aura of the old city. Her artworks spoke of an age of grace and splendour.
Nadeem Zuberi
April 15, 2019
Rida Fatima’s work was a reaction towards the demolition of hidden treasures of heritage sites in our country and she wanted viewers to contemplate the history of architecture in Mughal, Sikh and British periods, depicted in a solo show titled “Mirroring the Concrete” held at Mainframe Gallery, Karachi.
She draws on her own experiences while travelling through the city of Lahore.
She was fascinated to see the historical sites in the city but was disappointed to see the handling of these sites by the authorized people. Nobody seemed to care about the situation as was the case with historical sites affected by the Orange Line Metro Train construction so as a young painter and sculptor she decided to capture the historical buildings in her artworks for people to remember their actual images before the destruction of a city in the name of urban development.
“To me, it is not only the demise of architectural face of city, it is the deconstruction of the social fabric as well. It took generations to make the character of a city and it is being demolished with arrogance,” she said.
Lahore is one of the oldest cities of the world with the ancient ruins. She painted images of depilated red brick walls, doors, windows, fractured columns and balconies, thus she portrayed the facades of ruined or threatened buildings. The Lahore buildings were portrayed without foundation, there was no weight that binds them to the ground, no guarantee that their traces will remain for the years to come for future generations. In this sense, they appeared truly as memento.
Elaborating her work, Rida said, “Mirroring the concrete is a reflection of ephemeral world where human bodies exist and get attached to the remains of concrete. My art practice explores the intricate relationship between rural and urban sites with explicit attention to the urban development in which globalisation,
technology and materialism affect these two realms. I have been working on the constant cycle of construction and deconstruction which affect the infrastructure of human physical existence.”
Mostly she picked a small portion of a building to be captured in her artworks so that she can concentrate on details of the architecture and the story behind the walls. Her subject’s doors, windows, balconies, tiles and walls provided a peek in the past to the viewers.
Most of these works were created with conventional construction materials being used in Lahore for centuries. She employed wood and pigments to replicate wooden bricks and comes up with stunningly beautiful worn-out textures carrying the rustic aura of the old city. Her artworks spoke of an age of grace and splendour.
Kambojaric
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Colossal Buddha comes back in one piece
PESHAWAR: A huge stone Buddha, about 2,000-year-old, came back to Peshawar Museum safe and in one piece after remaining part of an exhibition called “Next Stop Nirvana” at Rietberg Museum in Zurich, Switzerland.
The size and history of the colossal Buddah make it unique. According to head of Peshawar Museum Mohammad Asif Raza, it can rightly be claimed that it is probably the biggest statue in the world -- made of stone and present in such good condition — dating back to first and second century AD.
Measuring eight feet and four inches (with pedestal almost 9 feet ) and carved in stone, it is a towering statue in Peshawar Museum and this was one reason that it caught the eye of the curator of Rietberg Museum, Dr Johannes Beltz, and others Swiss officials visiting Peshawar Museum in 2018.
A memorandum of understanding was signed between the governments of Pakistan and Switzerl to allow the huge Buddha to be taken for three and half months to Rietberg Museum for exhibition.
“Due to misperceptions about this part of the world, tourists don’t come much here so the archaeology and museums department decided to take these rare and historic artifacts to international exhibitions to show to the world the true image and history and art of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa,” said the official.
Peshawar Museum has one of the rich collections of rare artifacts. For the first time it tooled the initiative of showing the world this cultural and historic heritage when back in 2017 some 40 artifacts were loaned for exhibition to South Korea.
Pakistan’s ambassador to South Korea and chief monk inaugurated the exhibition that continued for three months. The monks and followers of Buddhism lauded the exhibition as it held great religious importance for them.
Lending the huge Buddha to Switzerland for its Rietberg Museum exhibition was second such initiative and according to the officials of both the museums some 35,000 people visited the Buddha during the exhibition held from December12, 2018 to March 31, 2019.
Like museums across the world, former director archaeology and museums Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Dr Abdul Samad, took the initiative to bring the Gandhara art and culture to the limelight by letting rare artifacts participate in such exhibition in countries that had religious and tourism interest in Gandhara and the region.
The curator of Rietberg Museum, Dr Johannes Beltz, in his tweet thanked all, who made it possible.
“The colossal Gandhara Buddha from Peshawar is back to his home - after being part of the exhibition “Next Stop Nirvana” at museum Rietberg. More than 35,000 visitors of all ages came to admire this great work of art. In the name of entire Museum Rietberg, I thank all who made it possible” he said in the tweet.
The statue was excavated by a British archaeological team in 1909 in Sahra-i-Bahlol near the Unesco World Heritage site of Takht Bhai in Mardan and was in Peshawar Museum for over a hundred years.
It was shifted for the first time in hundred years, only after insurance of some 20 million dollars, to move hearts of people far away by becoming highlight of the exhibition.
Asif Raza, who was part of the delegation that attended the exhibition, said that in so many decades the Buddha didn’t received as many visitors as it received during the three-month exhibition.
“We sent out a strong message about the history, art and true image of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa through this exhibition,” he said.
https://www.dawn.com/news/1476429/colossal-buddha-comes-back-in-one-piece
PESHAWAR: A huge stone Buddha, about 2,000-year-old, came back to Peshawar Museum safe and in one piece after remaining part of an exhibition called “Next Stop Nirvana” at Rietberg Museum in Zurich, Switzerland.
The size and history of the colossal Buddah make it unique. According to head of Peshawar Museum Mohammad Asif Raza, it can rightly be claimed that it is probably the biggest statue in the world -- made of stone and present in such good condition — dating back to first and second century AD.
Measuring eight feet and four inches (with pedestal almost 9 feet ) and carved in stone, it is a towering statue in Peshawar Museum and this was one reason that it caught the eye of the curator of Rietberg Museum, Dr Johannes Beltz, and others Swiss officials visiting Peshawar Museum in 2018.
A memorandum of understanding was signed between the governments of Pakistan and Switzerl to allow the huge Buddha to be taken for three and half months to Rietberg Museum for exhibition.
“Due to misperceptions about this part of the world, tourists don’t come much here so the archaeology and museums department decided to take these rare and historic artifacts to international exhibitions to show to the world the true image and history and art of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa,” said the official.
Peshawar Museum has one of the rich collections of rare artifacts. For the first time it tooled the initiative of showing the world this cultural and historic heritage when back in 2017 some 40 artifacts were loaned for exhibition to South Korea.
Pakistan’s ambassador to South Korea and chief monk inaugurated the exhibition that continued for three months. The monks and followers of Buddhism lauded the exhibition as it held great religious importance for them.
Lending the huge Buddha to Switzerland for its Rietberg Museum exhibition was second such initiative and according to the officials of both the museums some 35,000 people visited the Buddha during the exhibition held from December12, 2018 to March 31, 2019.
Like museums across the world, former director archaeology and museums Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Dr Abdul Samad, took the initiative to bring the Gandhara art and culture to the limelight by letting rare artifacts participate in such exhibition in countries that had religious and tourism interest in Gandhara and the region.
The curator of Rietberg Museum, Dr Johannes Beltz, in his tweet thanked all, who made it possible.
“The colossal Gandhara Buddha from Peshawar is back to his home - after being part of the exhibition “Next Stop Nirvana” at museum Rietberg. More than 35,000 visitors of all ages came to admire this great work of art. In the name of entire Museum Rietberg, I thank all who made it possible” he said in the tweet.
The statue was excavated by a British archaeological team in 1909 in Sahra-i-Bahlol near the Unesco World Heritage site of Takht Bhai in Mardan and was in Peshawar Museum for over a hundred years.
It was shifted for the first time in hundred years, only after insurance of some 20 million dollars, to move hearts of people far away by becoming highlight of the exhibition.
Asif Raza, who was part of the delegation that attended the exhibition, said that in so many decades the Buddha didn’t received as many visitors as it received during the three-month exhibition.
“We sent out a strong message about the history, art and true image of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa through this exhibition,” he said.
https://www.dawn.com/news/1476429/colossal-buddha-comes-back-in-one-piece
God Parshuram
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Pakistan Archaeological Sites
Pakistan, though young in the comity of nations, has a rich and varied history spanning a period of over 9000s. The people of Pakistan today have been around for a long time...much before 1947...much before the medieval Mughuls...much before Muhammad bin Qasim...much before Islam...and much before the emanation of Vedic cultures. Pakistan has a history of over 9000 years, all of which have a unique link with the Indus River; Balochistan's Mehrgarh (7000 BC), Khyber Pakthunkhwa's Rehman Dheri (4000 BC), Punjab's Harappa (3000 BC) and Sindh's Mohenjodaro (2500 BC) combined have more than 50,000 rock carvings and over 10,000 inscriptions. Many other heritage sites ranging from the Neolithic period in present-day Gilgit Baltistan and the the ancient Sharda University in Azad Jammu & Kashmir are also worth mentioning. Pakistan is an ancient land in world history. One of the oldest remains of human activity are found in the Soan Valley of the Potohar region in Punjab. The antiquity of these relics of the Stone Age is estimated at about over 2 million years old. Still within the Stone Age, in Balochistan, we find the remains of a stone age man, who was succeeded through the Mesolithic Age by the people of the Neolithic period. Signs of a continuous process of human activity and the hesitant steps of Neolithic and Chalcolithic/Bronze Age communities towards civilization have been found at Mehrgarh (8000 BC) but somewhere around 2700-2500 BC, this and other settlements began to disintegrate, possibly as a result of migration by people towards the Indus River. This process coincided with the emergence and extension of settled or urban life in the greater Indus Valley, culminating around 2300-1500 BC, in the mature Bronze Age 'Indus Valley Civilisation' represented by the sites of Moenjodaro in Sindh and Harappa in Punjab. They are renowned for being one of the most well developed early urban civilisations in human history. Following the decline of the Indus cities and the arrival of the Aryans in this region, around 1800-800 BC., at Pirak, Balochistan, there are indications of the use of iron by the communities of the region, along with extensive cultivation of rice, sorghum and millet. The fall of the Indus Civilisation was probably caused by Aryan tribes round about 1500 BC. They were pastoral societies which developed into the Rig-Vedic or early historic city-states. Successively, the territories now constituting Pakistan were conquered by Darius-I of Persia, the Mauryan Great King Ashoka, Bactrian Greeks, Scythians, Parthians and Kushans. The Gandhara region in northern Pakistan flourished from the time of the Persian conquest (600 BC to 500 AD) to the invasion of the White Huns. Almost all the invaders favoured Buddhism and Buddhist cultural traditions flourished in the region. One of the most prized art forms of Pakistan 'the Buddhist Art of Gandhara' reached its zenith during the reign of Kanishka. After the conquest of Sindh by Muhammad bin Qasim in 711 AD, Islam gained firm hold in the area. From the 10th century on wards, Ghaznavis, Ghoris, Khiljis and Tughlaks ruled over the Indus until the invasion of Timur, who paved the way for the great Mughal Empire. This empire lasted until the War of Independence of 1857. The Early Muslim rulers of the subcontinent kept the border open for Muslims, which resulted in the spread of Islam and the establishment of Muslim settlements throughout the region. This era has given Pakistan much of its rich ethnic and cultural heritage. The realisation of the two nation theory on the basis of religion saw its dawn in the subcontinent with the arrival of Muhammad bin Qasim. Subsequent Muslim rulers came from Persia and Central Asia, with entirely different cultures, resulting in a harmonious fusion. With the passage of time, two nations developed with a different outlook on life, language and literature, customs and legal system, arts and architecture. The Muslims ruled the subcontinent until the establishment of the British Empire, which lasted until 1947. After Independence in 1947, Islamic traditions and values continued to be a defining force in the collective and individual lives of the people of Pakistan.
There are a number of sites in Pakistan that were once home to great and ancient civilizations. The sophistication of their cultures and times can still be observed in the ruins and remains that can be found at many locations here. These are of great interest to archaeologists as they afford a view into the past and shed some more light on how life once used to be for the inhabitants of these lands.
Here’s a list of some particularly prominent areas:
Mehrgarh
The civilization found in Mehrgarh was amongst the first in the world to establish the practice of agriculture, keeping of livestock and organized communal life with a village structure. It lasted for 5000 years till 2000-2500 B.C. after which the ancient dwellers seem to have migrated to other areas, speculated to be Mohenjodaro and Harappa.
It was previously thought that the earliest settlements in South Asia were in Mohenjodaro and Harappa, the best known sites for the Indus Valley Civilization. However, in 1979, the timeline of civilization found in Pakistan was pushed back by more than 4000 years by the discovery of the signs of a civilization at Mehrgarh, about 30 kilometres from the town of Sibi, in the province of Balochistan. The remains are dated to 7000-9000 years ago and therefore immediately precede the Stone Age.
The timeline for this area has been divided into four to seven periods. The earliest of these is the Pre-Pottery Neolithic period of 7000 B.C. and possibly even before that. Mehrgarh was deserted between 2000 and 2500 B.C. and reused as a burial ground for some time after 2000 B.C. It would therefore make sense to say that the Indus Valley civilization has its roots here as well since archaeologists have linked Harappan genesis to Mehrgarh, after the discovery of some early indications of Harappan styles, especially the similarities in earthenware.
The Neolithic Revolution seems to have taken place around 8500 – 6000 B.C. Livestock and agriculture started and life became more settled in permanent housing. Remains of painted pottery and ornaments representing both humans and animals have also been excavated recently from the site. And in what could be one of the earliest known evidence of dentistry and knowledge of dental procedures, scientists at the University of Missouri-Columbia have found tiny, perfectly rounded holes in teeth in the region which they think were drilled to repair tooth decay. None of these come from a special tomb, suggesting that oral health care was available as a general right.
Kot Diji
Around 3500-3000 B.C, another civilization came into being while the Indus Valley Civilization was just underway. Located about 22 km south of Khairpur in the Sindh of province, Pakistan, the Kot Dijli site is some 60 km away from Mohenjo-daro.
Excavated in 1955, the site’s culture is characterized by the use of the red-slipped globular jar with a short neck painted with a black band. During the peak of this civilization, the region was divided into two. The first part was a Citadel for the elites, separated by a defensive wall from the general public. The second was a Lower Town with mud houses. Terracotta found from this site has characteristic horizontal and wavy lines, or loops and triangular patterns. Remains of jars, balls, bangles, beads, pots and figures have also been discovered at the site.
The ancient site is speculated to have been burned down, though the reasons for this end are yet to be discovered.
Mohenjodaro
The name literally translates to Mound of the Death. Situated 350 miles from Karachi, the capital of Sindh, Mohenjodaro is one of the most important archaeological sites in Pakistan. It was one of the largest settlements of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization, and one of the world’s earliest major urban settlements. The civilization existed from 2500 B.C. to about 1500 B.C. after which it disappeared. Mohenjodaro was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980.
The citadels found here seem to have once housed palaces, granaries, and grand baths used for ablutions. The town was laid out in rectangular patterns. Houses were two-storied and had drainage systems that led into brick-lined sewers.
Trade and agriculture formed the backbone of the ancient economy. Many copper, bronze, and clay fashioned remains have been found. An important find are the seals. These are engraved with animal figures and a line of pictograph script. On some seals there is a tree or the Hindu god Shiva drawn. The script has yet to be deciphered.

It is mostly accepted that the civilization fell in 1500 B.C. to invading Aryans.
Harappa
Harappa is situated 35 km from Sahiwal and around 250 km from Lahore in the province of Punjab. It was from here that the remains of the Indus Valley Civilization were first discovered that eventually led archaeologists to Mohenjodaro. Though some of the remains of Harappa were destroyed, several cemeteries have been excavated to reveal much about the Harappan culture.
There seem to be have been a series of cities. With a similar layout and designs of citadel and granaries, Harappa looks like Mohenjodaro and appears to have been most populated around in 2000 to 1700 B.C. as well. The economy appears to have been agriculture and trade oriented.
Many of the dead were buried wearing a variety of jewelry and other ornaments, such as rings, along with earrings and bangles. Some of the females had anklets of tiny beads and girdles studded with semi-precious stones.
Taxila
Taxila is a town situated about 32 km away from Islamabad, the Capital of Pakistan. The name is translated to “City of Cut Stone” in Sanskrit. The civilization here is dated back to the Persian Empire in the 6th century BC. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980 and in 2006 it was said to be the top tourist destination in Pakistan according to The Guardian.
Taxila can be considered to be amongst the earliest universities to ever exist. This may not be highly accurate in the modern sense, as there was no particular structure to the imparting of Education. The teachers were not paid and had complete autonomy as to the choosing of students and subjects, without any centralized syllabus or control from the ruling authorities. There were also no examinations taken or degrees awarded.
The main ruins of Taxila are divided into three major cities, and each corresponds to a different period in time. The oldest of these is in the Hathial area, which yielded surface shards similar to red burnished ware and these remains may be from an era as early as the late 2nd millennium B.C. to the 6th century B.C. The second is found at Sirkap and was built in the 2nd century B.C. The last city is situated at Sirsukh.
Rehman Dheri
It is a pre-Harappan site, and dated about 4000 B.C. It is located 22 km away from Dera Ismail Khan in the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa Province. It is considered to be one of the oldest urbanized centers in South Asia that we know of.
It appears to have once been a large walled rectangular city with a grid iron network. The location of a number of small-scale industrial areas can be seen occupied by eroding kilns and scatters of slag. The surface is strewn with thousands of shreds.
There are not many remains at Rehman Dheri except for thousands of broken utensil bits and stone. It seems to have been left by its inhabitants in the middle of the third millennium B.C. The plan of the Early Harappan settlement is therefore completely undisturbed by later developments in civilization that took place at the other sites and hence represents the beginning of urbanization in South Asia.
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DN Directs Reconstruction Of Demolished Portion Of Historical City Wall
PESHAWAR, (UrduPoint / Pakistan Point News - 24th Apr, 2019 ) District administration has started reconstruction of demolished portion of historical city wall while the KP Archeology department has lodged and FIR against some local proprietors.
Expressing anguish over demolishing of the city wall, District Nazim Muhammad Asim Khan has sought report in the matter and directed reconstruction of the wall as soon as possible. He also directed for lodging FIR against elements involved in demolition.
The property owners for achieving their nefarious design of direct access from main road have demolished large portion of historical city wall near Kohati Gate and were digging surface more for construction of basement.
Talking to APP, Research Officer Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Archaeology and Museum Directorate Nawazuddin said property owners took benefit from the darkness of night and had demolished large portion of historic wall.
He said that FIR has been lodged against property owner by KP Archaeology Directorate at Kotwali Police Station under KP Antiquities Act, 2016.
He said wall was demolished due to non-availability of direct access of property from the main road.
The historic wall was constructed in Mughal era for safeguarding the city from attackers, Nawazuddin told APP.
He said that the team of the Directorate has visited the site and stopped further damage.
Meanwhile members of civil society also demanded to conduct probe into demolition of city wall and for strict action against responsible.
https://www.urdupoint.com/en/pakistan/dn-directs-reconstruction-of-demolished-porti-604352.html
_________________________
Hope the culprits are punished severely.
PESHAWAR, (UrduPoint / Pakistan Point News - 24th Apr, 2019 ) District administration has started reconstruction of demolished portion of historical city wall while the KP Archeology department has lodged and FIR against some local proprietors.
Expressing anguish over demolishing of the city wall, District Nazim Muhammad Asim Khan has sought report in the matter and directed reconstruction of the wall as soon as possible. He also directed for lodging FIR against elements involved in demolition.
The property owners for achieving their nefarious design of direct access from main road have demolished large portion of historical city wall near Kohati Gate and were digging surface more for construction of basement.
Talking to APP, Research Officer Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Archaeology and Museum Directorate Nawazuddin said property owners took benefit from the darkness of night and had demolished large portion of historic wall.
He said that FIR has been lodged against property owner by KP Archaeology Directorate at Kotwali Police Station under KP Antiquities Act, 2016.
He said wall was demolished due to non-availability of direct access of property from the main road.
The historic wall was constructed in Mughal era for safeguarding the city from attackers, Nawazuddin told APP.
He said that the team of the Directorate has visited the site and stopped further damage.
Meanwhile members of civil society also demanded to conduct probe into demolition of city wall and for strict action against responsible.
https://www.urdupoint.com/en/pakistan/dn-directs-reconstruction-of-demolished-porti-604352.html
_________________________
Hope the culprits are punished severely.
ghazi52
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Archaeologists discover '2,200-year-old workshop from Indo-Greek era' in Peshawar
Arif Hayat
The workshop likely produced arrows, bows, daggers, and swords. — All photos provided by author
Archaeologists from the University of Peshawar (UoP) said on Thursday that they have discovered remains of metal workshops from the Indo-Greek period dating back to the 2nd century BCE, DawnNewsTV reported on Thursday.
The discovery has been made from a site in the Hayatabad neighbourhood of Peshawar, located close to the border of the Khyber district, said professor Gul Rahim, adding that excavation work at the site had been going on for the past three years.
He said that they have recovered coins dating back to the Indo-Greek period and estimated to be about 2,200 years old.
An iron chisel.
The professor said that the Indo-Greeks had migrated from Afghanistan to present day Peshawar, and ruled the region for about 150 years.
“The relics recovered show that the site was some sort of a metal workshop as we have found iron melting pots, molds, trowels, knives and drills, which were used at the workshop,” Rahim said.
The workshop also likely produced arrows, bows, daggers, and swords, he added.
A crucible.
"The site shows that the workshop was divided into blocks, whereas remains of furnaces, grinder stones and other vestiges of the era are still clearly visible," said the professor.
Professor Gul further said that "this marks the first discovery of an organised Indo-Greek workshop in the province so far."
An anvil.
Meanwhile, Mohammad Naeem, an archaeological surveyor, said that "as compared to Buddhist sites that were built using brick masonry, this site was made from clay so it was difficult to preserve it.”
He said that remains of the Indo-Greek period have also been found in Gor Khatri archaeological complex.
Jan Gul, an MPhil scholar at the UoP, said that it was the first time that students were able to see Indo-Greek remains, as previously only Buddhist and Mughal relics had been studied.
https://www.dawn.com/news/1478347/a...-old-workshop-from-indo-greek-era-in-peshawar
Arif Hayat
The workshop likely produced arrows, bows, daggers, and swords. — All photos provided by author
Archaeologists from the University of Peshawar (UoP) said on Thursday that they have discovered remains of metal workshops from the Indo-Greek period dating back to the 2nd century BCE, DawnNewsTV reported on Thursday.
The discovery has been made from a site in the Hayatabad neighbourhood of Peshawar, located close to the border of the Khyber district, said professor Gul Rahim, adding that excavation work at the site had been going on for the past three years.
He said that they have recovered coins dating back to the Indo-Greek period and estimated to be about 2,200 years old.
An iron chisel.
The professor said that the Indo-Greeks had migrated from Afghanistan to present day Peshawar, and ruled the region for about 150 years.
“The relics recovered show that the site was some sort of a metal workshop as we have found iron melting pots, molds, trowels, knives and drills, which were used at the workshop,” Rahim said.
The workshop also likely produced arrows, bows, daggers, and swords, he added.
A crucible.
"The site shows that the workshop was divided into blocks, whereas remains of furnaces, grinder stones and other vestiges of the era are still clearly visible," said the professor.
Professor Gul further said that "this marks the first discovery of an organised Indo-Greek workshop in the province so far."
An anvil.
Meanwhile, Mohammad Naeem, an archaeological surveyor, said that "as compared to Buddhist sites that were built using brick masonry, this site was made from clay so it was difficult to preserve it.”
He said that remains of the Indo-Greek period have also been found in Gor Khatri archaeological complex.
Jan Gul, an MPhil scholar at the UoP, said that it was the first time that students were able to see Indo-Greek remains, as previously only Buddhist and Mughal relics had been studied.
https://www.dawn.com/news/1478347/a...-old-workshop-from-indo-greek-era-in-peshawar
Kambojaric
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Well ‘discovery’ at Guru Nanak’s enclosure
NAROWAL: The caretakers of Gurdwara Baba Guru Nanak at Kirtarpur, Shakargarh tehsil, claim that a 550-year-old well has been discovered while digging the enclosure of the sacred place.
The well is considered a boon for the Sikh pilgrims who flock to the place from far and wide for Baisakhi and on other occasions.
The 20-foot well (made of small bricks) is said to be built during the life of Baba Guru Nanak. The water used to be sweet and clear and the Sikh pilgrims used it in the belief that it’s the gift of the founding leader and could rid them of ailments.
The news of the discovery -- “a marvel of Baba Guru Nanak” -- has brought elation to the pilgrims. It is being cleared and used after its repair and decoration.
Giani Sahib Sardar Gobind Singh said: “This well was in fact discovered three years ago on the basis of information and the pilgrims visiting the holy place consider its water amrat jal (sacred water). They have a firm belief that the water has the healing quality.”
The gurdwara administration says further information is being gathered about the well.
https://www.dawn.com/news/1478814/well-discovery-at-guru-nanaks-enclosure
NAROWAL: The caretakers of Gurdwara Baba Guru Nanak at Kirtarpur, Shakargarh tehsil, claim that a 550-year-old well has been discovered while digging the enclosure of the sacred place.
The well is considered a boon for the Sikh pilgrims who flock to the place from far and wide for Baisakhi and on other occasions.
The 20-foot well (made of small bricks) is said to be built during the life of Baba Guru Nanak. The water used to be sweet and clear and the Sikh pilgrims used it in the belief that it’s the gift of the founding leader and could rid them of ailments.
The news of the discovery -- “a marvel of Baba Guru Nanak” -- has brought elation to the pilgrims. It is being cleared and used after its repair and decoration.
Giani Sahib Sardar Gobind Singh said: “This well was in fact discovered three years ago on the basis of information and the pilgrims visiting the holy place consider its water amrat jal (sacred water). They have a firm belief that the water has the healing quality.”
The gurdwara administration says further information is being gathered about the well.
https://www.dawn.com/news/1478814/well-discovery-at-guru-nanaks-enclosure
ghazi52
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Cholistan’s Derawar Fort needs preservation
* Historically-significant fort presents impressive structure
BAHAWALPUR: The Derawar Fort, a large square fortress and visible for many miles in the Cholistan desert, was built by Rai Jajja Bhatti, a Rajput ruler of the Bhatti clan, was built in the 9th century AD as a tribute to Rawal Deoraj Bhatti, a sovereign king of the Jaisalmer and Bahawalpur areas who had his capital at Lodhruva.
The fort was initially known as Dera Rawal, and later referred to as Dera Rawar, which with the passage of time came to be pronounced Derawar, its present name. This historically-significant fort presents an enormous and impressive structure in the heart of the Cholistan desert, but it is rapidly deteriorating and in need of immediate measures for preservation.
The fort's name included in the Tentative List, an inventory of important heritage and natural sites that a country is considering for inscription on the World Heritage List thereby becoming the World Heritage Sites of the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO). The inclusion on the Tentative List is a prerequisite to being considered for inscription within a five- to 10-year period.
* Historically-significant fort presents impressive structure
BAHAWALPUR: The Derawar Fort, a large square fortress and visible for many miles in the Cholistan desert, was built by Rai Jajja Bhatti, a Rajput ruler of the Bhatti clan, was built in the 9th century AD as a tribute to Rawal Deoraj Bhatti, a sovereign king of the Jaisalmer and Bahawalpur areas who had his capital at Lodhruva.
The fort was initially known as Dera Rawal, and later referred to as Dera Rawar, which with the passage of time came to be pronounced Derawar, its present name. This historically-significant fort presents an enormous and impressive structure in the heart of the Cholistan desert, but it is rapidly deteriorating and in need of immediate measures for preservation.
The fort's name included in the Tentative List, an inventory of important heritage and natural sites that a country is considering for inscription on the World Heritage List thereby becoming the World Heritage Sites of the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO). The inclusion on the Tentative List is a prerequisite to being considered for inscription within a five- to 10-year period.
Kambojaric
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Pakistan, France mark 60 years of co-op in archaeology
KARACHI- A special event to mark the 60 years of archaeological cooperation between Pakistan and France was held at the Embassy in Paris organized by the Association of Friends of Pakistan.
Ambassador of Pakistan to France Moin ul Haque represented Pakistan in the event while Head of the French Archaeological Mission in the Indus Basin (MAFBI) Dr Aurore Didier was the key note speaker, said a statement issued on Friday.
The event was attended by the officials of the French Foreign Ministry, members of French archaeological mission, scholars, researchers and media persons.
Tracing the history of the French archaeological mission in the Indus Basin founded in 1958, Dr. Aurore Didier said that the mission had excavated major archaeological sites in Pakistan such as Amri in Sindh, Mehrgarh Nindowari, Nausharo, Miri Qalat and Shahi Tomb in Balochistan.
She said the mission especially took pride in its discovery of Mehrgarh in Balochistan which was the most ancient civilization in the entire South Asian region.
Dr Didier said that the extensive research and deep studies carried out during the last 60 years by the French and Pakistani archaeologists have produced invaluable data, highlighting the existence of thousands of years old civilization in the region which is now Pakistan.
Moinul Haque speaking on the occasion conveyed his congratulations on reaching this important milestone in the long history of strong and continuous cooperation between France and Pakistan in the field of archaeology.
Noting that the important discoveries made by the French team in Balochistan and Sindh, had greatly contributed to understanding of ancient cultures and civilizations in Pakistan. He specifically thanked Prof Jean-Francois Jarrige and Roland Besenval, the two French archaeologists, who were the pioneers in setting up the French Archaeology Mission and discovering Mehrgarh.
https://nation.com.pk/20-Apr-2019/pakistan-france-mark-60-years-of-co-op-in-archaeology
KARACHI- A special event to mark the 60 years of archaeological cooperation between Pakistan and France was held at the Embassy in Paris organized by the Association of Friends of Pakistan.
Ambassador of Pakistan to France Moin ul Haque represented Pakistan in the event while Head of the French Archaeological Mission in the Indus Basin (MAFBI) Dr Aurore Didier was the key note speaker, said a statement issued on Friday.
The event was attended by the officials of the French Foreign Ministry, members of French archaeological mission, scholars, researchers and media persons.
Tracing the history of the French archaeological mission in the Indus Basin founded in 1958, Dr. Aurore Didier said that the mission had excavated major archaeological sites in Pakistan such as Amri in Sindh, Mehrgarh Nindowari, Nausharo, Miri Qalat and Shahi Tomb in Balochistan.
She said the mission especially took pride in its discovery of Mehrgarh in Balochistan which was the most ancient civilization in the entire South Asian region.
Dr Didier said that the extensive research and deep studies carried out during the last 60 years by the French and Pakistani archaeologists have produced invaluable data, highlighting the existence of thousands of years old civilization in the region which is now Pakistan.
Moinul Haque speaking on the occasion conveyed his congratulations on reaching this important milestone in the long history of strong and continuous cooperation between France and Pakistan in the field of archaeology.
Noting that the important discoveries made by the French team in Balochistan and Sindh, had greatly contributed to understanding of ancient cultures and civilizations in Pakistan. He specifically thanked Prof Jean-Francois Jarrige and Roland Besenval, the two French archaeologists, who were the pioneers in setting up the French Archaeology Mission and discovering Mehrgarh.
https://nation.com.pk/20-Apr-2019/pakistan-france-mark-60-years-of-co-op-in-archaeology
ghazi52
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Pakistan through the eyes of a train traveller
Salman Rashid
End of the line at Khost | Photos by Salman Rashid
When the first train pulled into Quetta in March 1887, it did not roll the way they do today up the stony bends of the Bolan Pass. Instead, the line struck north from Sibi into the 160-kilometre-long meandering gorge of the Nari River through the sulphur-stained badlands of Gandakeen Aaf (sulphur water in Balochi) past such evocative names as Tanduri that is still famous for its furnace summer heat and into the cool highlands of Harnai and Shahrag. In those days when the Great Game had reached a frenzied pitch, the line that dreamed of reaching Kandahar was called the Kandahar State Railway.
Northwest of Harnai lay Khost and beyond it the dramatic yawning maw of the Chhappar Rift. But the rift is a tale of glorious achievement and woe so far as railway engineers of that time were concerned. Suffice it to say that it was put out of service by a summer rainstorm in July 1942. By then the line through the Bolan Pass was in place and passenger trains entering the Nari Gorge went only as far as Khost while coal trains trundled on another 15 kilometres to the mines of Zardalu.
When Pakistan Railway had not yet fallen into the paws of political worthies who believed railways could be easily replaced by road transport, we were still operating most of the 1,400 railway stations the country had inherited from the British Raj. Then there was a daily train service out from Sibi in the morning and back in from Khost in the evening.
I first rode this line in 1986. I had no business being on the train or anywhere it was going except that, having read a very interesting book, Couplings to the Khyber by P S A Berridge I merely wanted to see the line. From Sibi to somewhere near Kuchali, the country belonged to Marri Baloch tribespeople: silent and grim, the men with jet-black hair and whiskers cradled their well cared for rifles and preened themselves, curling up their dark moustaches to sharp points. As one of them and his wife got off at some station, I asked where he lived. Wordlessly, he waved an expansive hand in the direction of the sombre, coffee-coloured hills in the east. I watched him and his young wife stride off into the thicket of acacia trees and before the train set off again, they had disappeared from view.
The vandalised tombstone of Sarah Nicholas
Thereafter, it was Pashtun country: boisterous and garrulous, they had endless questions. Their everlasting surprise was that I had come all the way from Karachi only to ride the train to the end of the line and return the same way before sundown. They threw their heads back and laughed at me, “Levanai sarrhay de” – mad man – they told each other between guffaws.
After the outbreak of the Second Afghan War in 1879, the British did not want the secret out concerning their strategic railway link between Chaman and Kandahar so, even as they carried on building it, they named it as The Harnai Road Improvement Scheme. Secrets have the bad habit of becoming known and the enemy to thwart was Tsarist Russia that was fast expanding into Central Asia. And so to speed up the construction without the cover of secrecy, the new name given to the project was The Sind Peshin State Railway.
When Raj engineers were building this line in the 1880s, summer heat and fear of imperial Russia were not their only enemies. The Marris routinely raided the building parties to kill and plunder.
Leaving Sibi, the line crossed the meandering Nari River six times to reach Babar Kach. On my 1986 outing, we clattered along at a leisurely pace to cover the 83-kilometre distance to Khost in eight hours. That was just as well for I got the feel of the country and, as we halted at one of the stations, I saw a team of surveyors resting in the shade of the building. What gave me goosebumps and transported me back to that heroic age of exploration was their equipment: theodolite and plane table. That was long before satellite imagery became commonplace and killed all the excitement of the wild, uncharted places of our planet and the thrill of putting them on the map.
Khost
Khost station at the end of the line was another world: a pitched roof mud plastered building, decrepit and uncared for. In the background, another smaller but similar building stood forlorn. And way back below the cloudless sky were stark brown hills. Two regulation signs, one at either end of the platform, carried the name of the station in Urdu and English together with its height above sea: 1,255 metres. Everything was covered with a miasma of coal dust from the endless handling of coal coming from the mines of Zardalu.
The station master was a Mansehra native caught in Balochistan from the time of One Unit, he said. There were no paved roads here, he pointed out. Below Harnai, it was camel country if there were no trains. If ever a railway line was a lifeline, it was this connecting Sibi with Khost, he said with visible pride. Over tea, he pointed out of his window to the little knoll across the coal-blackened siding and suggested I should check out the graveyard before leaving.
“Take your time,” he said as I was leaving, “I’ll hold the train for you.”
There were several graves, mostly of soldiers. Two caught my attention: Sarah Nicholas and her brother Stefan. Neither child crossed their fourth birthday and both died within a few months of each other in 1898. The gravestones had English, Urdu and another writing that I had then erroneously taken to be Cyrillic (which it wasn’t). Over the years, I have tried to learn more about these children and their unfortunate parents but no railway literature has anything on them.
On the return journey to Sibi, I made friends with the locomotive driver and rode the footplate all the way back to get a good look at the bridges. Painted the prescription liver red, they were magnificent spans of steel. Thereafter I took several trips up and down this line, always just for the heck of being there.
The first destroyed bridge north of Sibi
In 1999, I took four European railway enthusiasts by road to Khost. I was shocked to see the graveyard vandalised. The soldiers’ tombstones lay smashed. Little Stefan’s steel sarcophagus had been stolen for its weight while the marble plaque on Sarah’s upright brick monument was partially broken. America had won the jihad against Soviet Russia and in its aftermath a new Islam was born in Afghanistan and Pakistan that was soon to spread across the world.
After 1999, came a long hiatus. In 2007, word came that a military dictator’s folly had been matched in equal measure by Baloch tribesmen. For the dastardly murder of Nawab Akbar Khan Bugti, his followers blew up the bridges of the Nari Gorge. If the graveyard vandalism had left me heartbroken, now I was utterly devastated.
On a stormy evening in March 2009, I was in Sibi to take a railway trolley up the line to see how far I could get across the destroyed bridges. We put-putted out under storm lighting with the sun low in the east. In all my outings, I had never seen the Nari in such glorious pastel colours. As we came up to the first destroyed bridge, the railway gang operating the trolley said it had rained very heavily earlier in the morning in the headwaters of the Nari and we would be well advised to retreat before the river rose. Failing that, we would be stranded in the middle of the great outback with nowhere to go.
Wading across the knee-deep river, we hurriedly marched across the other side to reach the next bridge. More heartbreak. Beyond the third damaged bridge lay the deserted station of Tanduri. As we pottered about the place, I wondered why Italian film-maker Sergio Leone had never thought of making his spaghetti westerns here. And then the shout came: “The river is rising.”
The Nari Gorge around 20 kilometres north of Sibi
We ran to the first crossing which was fine. At the second, I asked if the escorting militiaman could order the river to flow backward. At the third, we were chest deep in milk-coffee water. I held my camera bag aloft as we carefully threaded our way to the far side where the trolley waited. Thankfully, the whole episode passed uneventfully.
Later in Sibi, I met an elderly Marri Baloch and I asked him why would they destroy such beautiful pieces of engineering and architecture. The man was livid. He said they were all thankless people. They rode the train from end to end for negligible fare. Mostly they did not even pay that. Now they shell out a 100 rupees apiece to get a ride on a tractor trolley. And then they have to walk for hours to Sibi.
Recently, I caught the rumour about the Nari bridges having been repaired. They indeed have, confirm my railway friends and, though the line is up, it is not running. “Too much insecurity,” I was informed.
Of all the railway journeys in Pakistan it was the Sibi-Khost section that raised goosebumps as the train thundered over the Nari bridges and through the pastel hills of the gorge. On a June afternoon in Tanduri one was swamped with anxiety: what if the locomotive broke down? Where and how would one find succour? And in midwinter, the dry chill of Harnai ran through one’s bones as one espied the distant hills show off their mantles of new snow. This was not a line to travel on to get anywhere; it was and may one day again be a line to take you places that exist in wild imaginations even without going anywhere.
The author is a travel writer and photographer.
Salman Rashid
End of the line at Khost | Photos by Salman Rashid
When the first train pulled into Quetta in March 1887, it did not roll the way they do today up the stony bends of the Bolan Pass. Instead, the line struck north from Sibi into the 160-kilometre-long meandering gorge of the Nari River through the sulphur-stained badlands of Gandakeen Aaf (sulphur water in Balochi) past such evocative names as Tanduri that is still famous for its furnace summer heat and into the cool highlands of Harnai and Shahrag. In those days when the Great Game had reached a frenzied pitch, the line that dreamed of reaching Kandahar was called the Kandahar State Railway.
Northwest of Harnai lay Khost and beyond it the dramatic yawning maw of the Chhappar Rift. But the rift is a tale of glorious achievement and woe so far as railway engineers of that time were concerned. Suffice it to say that it was put out of service by a summer rainstorm in July 1942. By then the line through the Bolan Pass was in place and passenger trains entering the Nari Gorge went only as far as Khost while coal trains trundled on another 15 kilometres to the mines of Zardalu.
When Pakistan Railway had not yet fallen into the paws of political worthies who believed railways could be easily replaced by road transport, we were still operating most of the 1,400 railway stations the country had inherited from the British Raj. Then there was a daily train service out from Sibi in the morning and back in from Khost in the evening.
I first rode this line in 1986. I had no business being on the train or anywhere it was going except that, having read a very interesting book, Couplings to the Khyber by P S A Berridge I merely wanted to see the line. From Sibi to somewhere near Kuchali, the country belonged to Marri Baloch tribespeople: silent and grim, the men with jet-black hair and whiskers cradled their well cared for rifles and preened themselves, curling up their dark moustaches to sharp points. As one of them and his wife got off at some station, I asked where he lived. Wordlessly, he waved an expansive hand in the direction of the sombre, coffee-coloured hills in the east. I watched him and his young wife stride off into the thicket of acacia trees and before the train set off again, they had disappeared from view.
The vandalised tombstone of Sarah Nicholas
Thereafter, it was Pashtun country: boisterous and garrulous, they had endless questions. Their everlasting surprise was that I had come all the way from Karachi only to ride the train to the end of the line and return the same way before sundown. They threw their heads back and laughed at me, “Levanai sarrhay de” – mad man – they told each other between guffaws.
After the outbreak of the Second Afghan War in 1879, the British did not want the secret out concerning their strategic railway link between Chaman and Kandahar so, even as they carried on building it, they named it as The Harnai Road Improvement Scheme. Secrets have the bad habit of becoming known and the enemy to thwart was Tsarist Russia that was fast expanding into Central Asia. And so to speed up the construction without the cover of secrecy, the new name given to the project was The Sind Peshin State Railway.
When Raj engineers were building this line in the 1880s, summer heat and fear of imperial Russia were not their only enemies. The Marris routinely raided the building parties to kill and plunder.
Leaving Sibi, the line crossed the meandering Nari River six times to reach Babar Kach. On my 1986 outing, we clattered along at a leisurely pace to cover the 83-kilometre distance to Khost in eight hours. That was just as well for I got the feel of the country and, as we halted at one of the stations, I saw a team of surveyors resting in the shade of the building. What gave me goosebumps and transported me back to that heroic age of exploration was their equipment: theodolite and plane table. That was long before satellite imagery became commonplace and killed all the excitement of the wild, uncharted places of our planet and the thrill of putting them on the map.
Khost
Khost station at the end of the line was another world: a pitched roof mud plastered building, decrepit and uncared for. In the background, another smaller but similar building stood forlorn. And way back below the cloudless sky were stark brown hills. Two regulation signs, one at either end of the platform, carried the name of the station in Urdu and English together with its height above sea: 1,255 metres. Everything was covered with a miasma of coal dust from the endless handling of coal coming from the mines of Zardalu.
The station master was a Mansehra native caught in Balochistan from the time of One Unit, he said. There were no paved roads here, he pointed out. Below Harnai, it was camel country if there were no trains. If ever a railway line was a lifeline, it was this connecting Sibi with Khost, he said with visible pride. Over tea, he pointed out of his window to the little knoll across the coal-blackened siding and suggested I should check out the graveyard before leaving.
“Take your time,” he said as I was leaving, “I’ll hold the train for you.”
There were several graves, mostly of soldiers. Two caught my attention: Sarah Nicholas and her brother Stefan. Neither child crossed their fourth birthday and both died within a few months of each other in 1898. The gravestones had English, Urdu and another writing that I had then erroneously taken to be Cyrillic (which it wasn’t). Over the years, I have tried to learn more about these children and their unfortunate parents but no railway literature has anything on them.
On the return journey to Sibi, I made friends with the locomotive driver and rode the footplate all the way back to get a good look at the bridges. Painted the prescription liver red, they were magnificent spans of steel. Thereafter I took several trips up and down this line, always just for the heck of being there.
The first destroyed bridge north of Sibi
In 1999, I took four European railway enthusiasts by road to Khost. I was shocked to see the graveyard vandalised. The soldiers’ tombstones lay smashed. Little Stefan’s steel sarcophagus had been stolen for its weight while the marble plaque on Sarah’s upright brick monument was partially broken. America had won the jihad against Soviet Russia and in its aftermath a new Islam was born in Afghanistan and Pakistan that was soon to spread across the world.
After 1999, came a long hiatus. In 2007, word came that a military dictator’s folly had been matched in equal measure by Baloch tribesmen. For the dastardly murder of Nawab Akbar Khan Bugti, his followers blew up the bridges of the Nari Gorge. If the graveyard vandalism had left me heartbroken, now I was utterly devastated.
On a stormy evening in March 2009, I was in Sibi to take a railway trolley up the line to see how far I could get across the destroyed bridges. We put-putted out under storm lighting with the sun low in the east. In all my outings, I had never seen the Nari in such glorious pastel colours. As we came up to the first destroyed bridge, the railway gang operating the trolley said it had rained very heavily earlier in the morning in the headwaters of the Nari and we would be well advised to retreat before the river rose. Failing that, we would be stranded in the middle of the great outback with nowhere to go.
Wading across the knee-deep river, we hurriedly marched across the other side to reach the next bridge. More heartbreak. Beyond the third damaged bridge lay the deserted station of Tanduri. As we pottered about the place, I wondered why Italian film-maker Sergio Leone had never thought of making his spaghetti westerns here. And then the shout came: “The river is rising.”
The Nari Gorge around 20 kilometres north of Sibi
We ran to the first crossing which was fine. At the second, I asked if the escorting militiaman could order the river to flow backward. At the third, we were chest deep in milk-coffee water. I held my camera bag aloft as we carefully threaded our way to the far side where the trolley waited. Thankfully, the whole episode passed uneventfully.
Later in Sibi, I met an elderly Marri Baloch and I asked him why would they destroy such beautiful pieces of engineering and architecture. The man was livid. He said they were all thankless people. They rode the train from end to end for negligible fare. Mostly they did not even pay that. Now they shell out a 100 rupees apiece to get a ride on a tractor trolley. And then they have to walk for hours to Sibi.
Recently, I caught the rumour about the Nari bridges having been repaired. They indeed have, confirm my railway friends and, though the line is up, it is not running. “Too much insecurity,” I was informed.
Of all the railway journeys in Pakistan it was the Sibi-Khost section that raised goosebumps as the train thundered over the Nari bridges and through the pastel hills of the gorge. On a June afternoon in Tanduri one was swamped with anxiety: what if the locomotive broke down? Where and how would one find succour? And in midwinter, the dry chill of Harnai ran through one’s bones as one espied the distant hills show off their mantles of new snow. This was not a line to travel on to get anywhere; it was and may one day again be a line to take you places that exist in wild imaginations even without going anywhere.
The author is a travel writer and photographer.
ghazi52
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Khaliqdina Hall was originally built in 1906.
Khaliqdina Hall is located in Karachi. Its original name is Ghulam Hoosain Khaliqdina Hall and Library written on the front of the sandstone building. It has a hall which is used for various events and functions. A room is dedicated to a library and one room caters as an office of a NGO. Khaliqdina Hall holds a historical significance as it was used in British India by the British authorities in 1921 as a court to try Maulana Shaukat Ali and Maulana Mohammad Ali Jauhar, leaders of the Khilafat movement.
Khaliqdina Hall is located in Karachi. Its original name is Ghulam Hoosain Khaliqdina Hall and Library written on the front of the sandstone building. It has a hall which is used for various events and functions. A room is dedicated to a library and one room caters as an office of a NGO. Khaliqdina Hall holds a historical significance as it was used in British India by the British authorities in 1921 as a court to try Maulana Shaukat Ali and Maulana Mohammad Ali Jauhar, leaders of the Khilafat movement.
Kambojaric
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Forgotten wonders — the Tomb of Mir Chakar Rind and Satghara Fort
Before we get to this historic tomb let us probe through the history of this hero who is revered by the Balochs. This is Mir Chakar Khan Rind and is popularly known as Chakar-i-Azam. He was a Baloch chieftain in the 16th century when the Mughal Emperor Humayun was finding his way to win the sub continent. It was Mir Chakar who aided Mughal Emperor Humayun in his re-conquest of the Subcontinent. You will also find Mir Chakar an important figure in the Baloch epic Hani and Sheh Mureed. This great Baloch Chief was also a notable poet.
If we go back into the history of this Baloch hero we get to know that Chakar Rind lived near Sibi and became the head of Rind tribe at the young age of 18 after the death of his father Mir Shahak Khan Rind. Chakar was a brave and fearless man who desired to make the Baloch nation powerful.
His power was short-lived because of a civil war between the Lashari and Rind tribes of Balochistan. Mir Chakar Rind went to war which resulted in thousands dead. The war and the gallantry of the two tribe leaders continued to be a part of the Baloch history. it is said that Rind defeated the Lasahris after almost 30 years.
When Mir Chakar left Sibi, his next stop was Sanghar Desert and he ruled the area for many years. No one could defeat Mir Chakar and his army until Mir Doda Khan arrived with his army and defeated Mir Chakar in the desert of Sanghar, after which Mir Chakar and his army left Sanghar and moved to the Multan area where he shook hands with the Multan king.
After some time the Multan king invited Mir Doda to dinner and asked him to be the part of his army. This ignited Mir Chakar and that was the time when the great Ring planned to attack Mir Doda. In the battle, Mir Doda was badly defeated and his people and army moved to Sindh and never came back.
Later, Mir Chakar went to Satghara and settled there. Rind gained power in the area and the locals respected him. That was the time when Sher Shah Suri was in power and was fighting against the Mughals. When Sher Shah Suri got familiar with the power and capabilities of Mir Chakar he invited Chakar to join him but Chakar humbly refused to help Sher Shah Suri. On the other hand Chakar’s forces, under the command of his son, Mir Shahdad Khan, joined the Mughal army of Emperor Humayun in 1555.
Humayun was in an exile in Persia and upon his return he recaptured Delhi, and forced out the Suri dynasty in 1556. At that critical time Mir Chakar assisted Humayun and became his close associates. Regardless of his own life Mir Chakar fought against the powerful army of Sher Shah and helped the Mughal King Humayun to regain his power.
As a reward, Emperor Humayun conferred a vast land, including horses and slaves, to Mir Chakar. He ruled this territory until he died in 1565. People who accompanied Mir Chakar to Satghara after leaving Balochistan constructed a tomb for Mir Chakar and this he lays buried in a small tomb inside the Satghara Fort.
You will see this tomb in the Satghara but unfortunately it is in a dilapidated condition. There are six graves inside the tomb and it is said by the locals that rest of the five graves are of the companions of Mir Chakar while the central one has been identified as the grave of great Baloch Chief.
His tomb is an octagonal structure crowned by a bulbous dome on the top. Though the exterior of the tomb was elaborate, the interior has simple graves at the centre, covered with a green cloth containing verses of the Quran. The structure of the tomb is a typical Mughal structure and matched the Tomb of Anarkali located in Lahore. It is simple with arches and ghalib kari.
During the Sikh Rule a wall was constructed around the tomb which damaged the structure of the building. Outside the tomb is an empty ground which is used by the children for playing and locals hold gatherings there. Once this entire area was a fort but now no remains are seen except for the fortified wall.
Let me tell you some interesting facts about Satghara which is a small walled city and many call it Satghara Fort as well. It is located near Renala Khurd a few kilometres away from the Multan road in Punjab. It ages more than the Mughal rule and Mughals made it their headquarters as well. Archaeologists claim that according to the coins found at Satghara it was inhabited in the time of the Kushan dynasty.
It is said that during the second half of the 19th century this land was tormented by civil war. Various warlords had formed their own small armies and regularly raided other areas in search of reward. One such battle took place here at Satghara which was led by two brothers Wazir and Kamar Singh. The defeated family was known as Syedwala Sardars settled there and thus Satghara fell under the control of the Nikai family led by the Sikh brothers.
The current structure of the fort which is just one giant wall, covering the area from only one end, was built after this conquest. The Nikais, supporting Maharaja Ranjit Singh and then the British, were able to keep their control over the area till the time of partition, when the majority of their family migrated to India. A branch of the family though chose to convert to Islam and continued holding power in this area.
The area is well planned and has some of the historic remains including the gates just like the ones we see in Lahore’s Walled City. The Satghara is a typical backward area of the city and you will see small houses, unpaved roads and streets and open drains. The place along with the historic walls and other structures has been greatly damaged over the ages and the local people have been using the bricks of the fort to construct their own house and at many places the fortification wall has been much damaged.
At some distance from the fort there is an old Hindu Temple and a pond. The temples have been constructed in a simple style. At some distance are the remains of a tower are also situated over a high mound on the other side of the road.
Now let us come to the name of this place. The word Satghara is a combination of two words Sat and Ghara. Sat means seven in Urdu and Ghara means homes. Thus this word means seven homes.
Another sound historical folklore is narrated that some injured soldiers of Alexander the Great resided there and they named this ancient town as Stageira now called Satghara.
https://dailytimes.com.pk/385143/forgotten-wonders-the-tomb-of-mir-chakar-rind-and-satghara-fort/
Some more pics of Mir Chakar Rind and his tomb
Before we get to this historic tomb let us probe through the history of this hero who is revered by the Balochs. This is Mir Chakar Khan Rind and is popularly known as Chakar-i-Azam. He was a Baloch chieftain in the 16th century when the Mughal Emperor Humayun was finding his way to win the sub continent. It was Mir Chakar who aided Mughal Emperor Humayun in his re-conquest of the Subcontinent. You will also find Mir Chakar an important figure in the Baloch epic Hani and Sheh Mureed. This great Baloch Chief was also a notable poet.
If we go back into the history of this Baloch hero we get to know that Chakar Rind lived near Sibi and became the head of Rind tribe at the young age of 18 after the death of his father Mir Shahak Khan Rind. Chakar was a brave and fearless man who desired to make the Baloch nation powerful.
His power was short-lived because of a civil war between the Lashari and Rind tribes of Balochistan. Mir Chakar Rind went to war which resulted in thousands dead. The war and the gallantry of the two tribe leaders continued to be a part of the Baloch history. it is said that Rind defeated the Lasahris after almost 30 years.
When Mir Chakar left Sibi, his next stop was Sanghar Desert and he ruled the area for many years. No one could defeat Mir Chakar and his army until Mir Doda Khan arrived with his army and defeated Mir Chakar in the desert of Sanghar, after which Mir Chakar and his army left Sanghar and moved to the Multan area where he shook hands with the Multan king.
After some time the Multan king invited Mir Doda to dinner and asked him to be the part of his army. This ignited Mir Chakar and that was the time when the great Ring planned to attack Mir Doda. In the battle, Mir Doda was badly defeated and his people and army moved to Sindh and never came back.
Later, Mir Chakar went to Satghara and settled there. Rind gained power in the area and the locals respected him. That was the time when Sher Shah Suri was in power and was fighting against the Mughals. When Sher Shah Suri got familiar with the power and capabilities of Mir Chakar he invited Chakar to join him but Chakar humbly refused to help Sher Shah Suri. On the other hand Chakar’s forces, under the command of his son, Mir Shahdad Khan, joined the Mughal army of Emperor Humayun in 1555.
Humayun was in an exile in Persia and upon his return he recaptured Delhi, and forced out the Suri dynasty in 1556. At that critical time Mir Chakar assisted Humayun and became his close associates. Regardless of his own life Mir Chakar fought against the powerful army of Sher Shah and helped the Mughal King Humayun to regain his power.
As a reward, Emperor Humayun conferred a vast land, including horses and slaves, to Mir Chakar. He ruled this territory until he died in 1565. People who accompanied Mir Chakar to Satghara after leaving Balochistan constructed a tomb for Mir Chakar and this he lays buried in a small tomb inside the Satghara Fort.
You will see this tomb in the Satghara but unfortunately it is in a dilapidated condition. There are six graves inside the tomb and it is said by the locals that rest of the five graves are of the companions of Mir Chakar while the central one has been identified as the grave of great Baloch Chief.
His tomb is an octagonal structure crowned by a bulbous dome on the top. Though the exterior of the tomb was elaborate, the interior has simple graves at the centre, covered with a green cloth containing verses of the Quran. The structure of the tomb is a typical Mughal structure and matched the Tomb of Anarkali located in Lahore. It is simple with arches and ghalib kari.
During the Sikh Rule a wall was constructed around the tomb which damaged the structure of the building. Outside the tomb is an empty ground which is used by the children for playing and locals hold gatherings there. Once this entire area was a fort but now no remains are seen except for the fortified wall.
Let me tell you some interesting facts about Satghara which is a small walled city and many call it Satghara Fort as well. It is located near Renala Khurd a few kilometres away from the Multan road in Punjab. It ages more than the Mughal rule and Mughals made it their headquarters as well. Archaeologists claim that according to the coins found at Satghara it was inhabited in the time of the Kushan dynasty.
It is said that during the second half of the 19th century this land was tormented by civil war. Various warlords had formed their own small armies and regularly raided other areas in search of reward. One such battle took place here at Satghara which was led by two brothers Wazir and Kamar Singh. The defeated family was known as Syedwala Sardars settled there and thus Satghara fell under the control of the Nikai family led by the Sikh brothers.
The current structure of the fort which is just one giant wall, covering the area from only one end, was built after this conquest. The Nikais, supporting Maharaja Ranjit Singh and then the British, were able to keep their control over the area till the time of partition, when the majority of their family migrated to India. A branch of the family though chose to convert to Islam and continued holding power in this area.
The area is well planned and has some of the historic remains including the gates just like the ones we see in Lahore’s Walled City. The Satghara is a typical backward area of the city and you will see small houses, unpaved roads and streets and open drains. The place along with the historic walls and other structures has been greatly damaged over the ages and the local people have been using the bricks of the fort to construct their own house and at many places the fortification wall has been much damaged.
At some distance from the fort there is an old Hindu Temple and a pond. The temples have been constructed in a simple style. At some distance are the remains of a tower are also situated over a high mound on the other side of the road.
Now let us come to the name of this place. The word Satghara is a combination of two words Sat and Ghara. Sat means seven in Urdu and Ghara means homes. Thus this word means seven homes.
Another sound historical folklore is narrated that some injured soldiers of Alexander the Great resided there and they named this ancient town as Stageira now called Satghara.
https://dailytimes.com.pk/385143/forgotten-wonders-the-tomb-of-mir-chakar-rind-and-satghara-fort/
Some more pics of Mir Chakar Rind and his tomb
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