VIETNAM: Challenge of growing 'made by Japanese' rice
November 22, 2013
The Asahi Shimbun GLOBE
In the city of Binh Giang in the northern Vietnamese province of Hai Duong, an hour and a half by car from the nation's capital Hanoi, green rice paddies stretch out to the horizon.
It is one of Vietnam's top grain-producing regions, on a par with the Mekong Delta in the south. In mid-September, Japanese farmer Koichi Terui visited this land of swaying ears of rice ripe for harvesting.
Terui, 69, grows rice, wheat and other crops in Iwate Prefecture's Kitakami City.
Since February, he has been attempting to cultivate the Japanese rice varieties Akitakomachi and Hitomebore on a trial basis in four locations on the outskirts of Hanoi. The purpose of his September sojourn was to check up on how things had turned out.
In Vietnam, which has vast stretches of arable land perfectly suited to rice cultivation, double cropping is commonplace. Triple cropping is also possible. Most importantly, labor costs are low.
Terui recruits contract farmers to grow Japanese rice, then provides them with guidance with regards to irrigation and the use of fertilizer, based on the cultivation know-how he has developed in Japan. His intention is to purchase the inexpensive Japanese rice and put it on the market not only within Vietnam, but also in Singapore, Malaysia and the United States where Japanese cuisine is highly popular.
In Vietnam the staple is long grain rice, which takes on a dry, mealy texture when cooked.
Is it possible to successfully grow short-grain, sticky Japanese rice in a hot and humid climate like Vietnam's?
Terui carefully examined the quality of the rice in one field.
"Some of the unhulled rice doesn't contain any grains, but if we can improve cultivation techniques, we should be able to increase the yield," he says. "It's perfectly viable as a business venture."
In Japan, he owns around 800 hectares of farmland, and works not for himself but as the head of an agricultural production corporation that manages farms through a corporate structure. It will establish a Vietnamese affiliate during 2014. Technical guidance, crop collection and sales will be its main activities.
Terui was driven to set the plan in motion by Japan's participation in the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) negotiations.
"Of course, I'm against the TPP," he says. "Even so, if import duties for rice are abolished and cheap products enter Japan from overseas, we won't be able to avoid taking a hit. If that's the case, then we should stop limiting ourselves to Japan and try our chances abroad as well."
At the core of this belief is Terui's confidence in Japanese rice. Overseas demand is increasing in tandem with the growing popularity of Japanese culinary culture, such as sushi and gyudon (rice bowls topped with beef). The stumbling block is its price, which is double or even triple that of foreign-produced rice. That could be overcome if production is shifted to countries where labor costs are lower.
Nguyen Phu Binh, 65, served as Vietnam's ambassador to Japan for four years until 2011 and supports Terui's efforts.
"Rice 'made by Japanese' and produced with their technical guidance has every chance of becoming a global brand, not only because of its taste but also its health benefits," he says.
Vietnam has virtually doubled its rice export volume over the past 10 years, placing it second in the world after India in 2012 with an output of approximately 7.7 million tons. This has been a godsend for the Vietnamese government, which is hoping to expand exports even further with a boost from the TPP.
Kitoku Shinryo, a major Japanese rice wholesaler based in Tokyo, has also been growing Japanese rice in Vietnam. Working through a joint venture company, it has been providing technical guidance to commissioned farmers in the Mekong Delta since 1999. It purchases approximately 5,000 tons annually from its 1,000 contract farms, and exports the grain to neighboring Asian countries. Earnings have risen from 400 million yen ($4 million) to well over 500 million yen.
"We've built it up from zero through trial and error, in order to cater to the demand for Japanese rice overseas," says Akira Omori, vice president of the joint venture company.
The booming popularity of Japanese food in recent years has given impetus to his firm's endeavors.
"We've arrived at an age when there is a need for Japanese rice that is affordable for ordinary people in developing countries," Omori, 54, says.
The company will set up a Japanese-style rice drying facility in the spring with the aim of further production growth.
Vietnam is not the only country where Japanese rice cultivation has been introduced.
In Taiwan, a Niigata rice grower has been providing its expertise, and Japanese rice produced by local farmers is being sold domestically in department store food sections. Another Japanese interest has begun cultivating the Koshihikari variety in Thailand.
Rice "made by Japanese" is making greater inroads in other countries than grain "made in Japan."
"There are still issues such as rising labor costs in the future and market development," says Terui, who has been encouraged by the quality of Japanese rice grown in Binh Giang. "In contrast to Japan where consumption is declining, there are great prospects for growing rice overseas. I want to keep pursuing them."
(This portion of the article was written by Seiji Kanda, senior staff writer of The Asahi Shimbun.)
JAPANESE KNOW-HOW ON THE WORLD STAGE
In India, the world's second-largest producer and consumer of rice, rice cookers made by Japanese appliance manufacturer Panasonic Corp. are hot items. Its local affiliate doubled the number of units sold over the last five years to 700,000 in 2012.
When the company ventured into the Indian market in the 1990s, most households cooked rice in fire-heated pots. Rice cookers that eliminated the need to keep an eye on the cooking temperature with a press of a button were revolutionary.
Chinese and Indian manufacturers entered the fray by introducing lower-priced alternatives, but Panasonic countered this by perfecting its products' capability for cooking non-sticky Indica rice and developing multifunctional computer-controlled models. It has held on to the top spot in the market with a 30-percent share.
Satake, a company based in Higashi-Hiroshima City in Hiroshima Prefecture, boasts a 70-percent share of the global market for rice milling machines that make white rice from unhulled rice. The key to its success has been to cater to Indica rice, the world's most popular variety.
Sticky Japonica rice is milled by rubbing grains together. On the other hand, Indica rice grains are long, thin, and tend to break. So they are milled by grinding them against a grindstone that lightly polishes their surface. This technique was developed for the milling of rice for making sake. Satake currently exports its rice mills to around 150 countries, and is also expanding into Africa and South America.
"We have proprietary technology, such as the metal compound used to make the grindstones, their rotating speed, and the pressure they apply," says the company's chief spokesman Takeshi Munesada.
(This part was written by Yusaku Miyazaki, GLOBE staff writer.)