Enclave residents, all poor, hardworking peasants, have been stranded in no-man's land since partition in 1947. Bangladesh did not have access to them, while India ignored them. Now this will change. File photo: Ashoke Chakrabarty
As July melted into August at the stroke of midnight, 51 Bangladeshi enclaves formally dissolved into India. The residents of two such enclaves shared their happiness and relief at having finally found a national identity.
August 5 is a beautifully gloomy day — it has rained all morning, the sky is still overcast and the grey emphasises the green of the paddy fields spread out as far as the eye can see. However, the residents of Paschim Moshaldanga, a hamlet of 28 houses, are anything but gloomy. They are celebrating their freedom from a life of fear and falsehood — and relishing the sudden attention from the media worldwide.
Until July 31 this year, Paschim Moshaldanga was one of the 51 Bangladeshi enclaves in India, all of them dotting the rural extremes of Cooch Behar district in West Bengal. Bangladesh did not have access to them, India ignored them. Their residents — poor, hardworking peasants had been stranded in a
no-man’s land ever since the Partition of India in 1947.
If they’ve managed to live through the seven decades as non-entities, that’s largely because of the human instinct for survival and sometimes kindness shown by relatives living on the Indian side. The kindness usually came in the form of false address proofs, forged identity proofs and illegal power supply, without which they would have remained deprived of basic necessities in life.
But as July melted into August at the stroke of midnight, these pockets formally dissolved into India; simultaneously, 111 Indian
enclaves in Bangladesh merged into that country. The long-pending land swap, ratified by Prime Minister Narendra Modi and his Bangladeshi counterpart Sheikh Hasina on June 6, finally gave their residents national identities.
“We have finally got independence, we can now move around freely, talk freely,” says Kadam Sheikh (36), a resident of Paschim Moshaldanga, who often spends months together away from home, working as a construction labourer in cities such as Gurgaon, Noida, Amritsar and Dehradun.
“I got myself a fake voter ID card because there is always the fear of getting arrested as an illegal migrant when I go to work in those places,” says Sheikh, sitting under a rain-washed tree along with his neighbours. “But the card is of no help to my children because it shows my age as 25, whereas my daughter is 19 and son is 17. Hopefully I will get a new card now — a genuine one.”
His neighbour Jamal Sheikh (55) says: “We had to use fake names, fake addresses for every little thing — sending children to school, getting treatment in a government hospital, earning a living. They would send us away if they came to know we are from a
chhit.”
Chhit literally means drops or specks in Bengali, and is the term used locally, and quite aptly, to describe the enclaves. Even though the chhits have been totally ignored by India all these decades, they have relied entirely on India for survival, especially the Nazirhat market in Dinhata sub-division of Cooch Behar, where they sell their produce and also shop for their daily needs — from salt to clothes. Venturing too far from Cooch Behar always came with the risk of getting arrested, something that Amir Hossain learned the hard way.
National identities of their own
• Land swaps that came into force on August 1 gave the residents of 51 Bangladeshi chhits enclaves national identities
• Paschim Moshaldanga and Madhya Moshaldanga among the chhits transferred from Bangladesh to India.
• All the chhits come in the rural extremes of Cooch Behar, West Bengal
• All Chhit residents on Indian side of the border — a little over 14,000 people — have chosen to become Indian nationals
• Even though they have been totally ignored by India, they have relied entirely on India for survival, especially the Nazirhat market in Dinhata sub-division
• 111 Indian enclaves, with a population of 37,000, transferred to Bangladesh. About 1,000 of the residents to come to India
How did the
chhits come into existence in the first place? The joke is that a drunk British officer, while drawing the Radcliffe Line on the map spilled ink on either side of the border and those drops became the enclaves. Sir Cyril Radcliffe may not have had a hand in their creation at all.
Locals say the enclaves were the outcome of chess games played between the Maharaja of Cooch Behar and the Mughal Governor of bordering Rangpur in the 18th century. After the Partition, when Cooch Behar joined India, the ownership of some pieces of land remained with zamindars across the border; likewise, the papers of many pieces of land in East Pakistan remained with zamindars in Cooch Behar — that’s how, the locals believe, the enclaves were born.
“Whenever they sat down to play, they would put the most fertile lands in their territories at stake. If you get the soil tested, you will find the chhits to be more fertile than other lands,” Diptiman Sengupta, chief coordinator of the
Bharat-Bangladesh Enclave Exchange Coordination Movement, an NGO, had told me earlier in the day when I called on him at his home in Dinhata.