Resurrecting this post from the dead
I am a huge mountain lover (just a trekker;
not a climber though) and desperately wish to trek to K2 base camp. Have been told by many that I won't be able to obtain permits even in Gilgit Baltistan (let alone K2) as an Indian passport holder. However, I am convinced that there has to be a way out. So can someone please, please help me out? I am here to seek questions to couple of answers:
- Would any of you know any Indian traveller who has made it to Gilgit Baltistan, Karokaram and/or K2?
- Are you aware of any policy that goes in the favour of Indian travelers who wish to visit the Karokaram region?
@krash is pdf's very own mountain nerd, he may be able to help you.
The way GB works is that foreigners have to acquire permits or NOCs to visit certain militarily sensitive locations, e.g. Khaplu or Rattu. The rest of GB is open to all. Climbing permits are a separate issue which have nothing to do with one's nationality except the difference in fees for foreign Vs Pakistani climbers, but that's a non-issue since the permit fees are almost negligible either way. There are no special permits required to visit GB, per say.
With regards to Indians visiting GB, I haven't ever read anything official on it but it is widely believed that Indians and foreigners of Indian origin are not allowed into GB. Never having met, seen or even heard of any visiting Indians in the region over all these years, I'm pretty sure that this is true. Unlike AJK, there aren't any special allowances granted in GB's case either since there are hardly any family relations on the other side of the LOC.
Your best bet would be contacting the Pakistani embassy and try to work out something for an NOC. Just maybe, they'd let you in with a military liaison and a restricted travel permit. There is no regular way about this, you'll need special exceptions. However, I'd advise against keeping your hopes up on this.
95% of my research and people have said that this is absolutely not possible; but 3% have also said that this may be possible if:
- I am invited by a resident of Gilgit Baltistan (GB) (can get this arranged)
- I have a family in GB (not possible; and I don't want to put any incorrect info in my Visa application)
- Pakistan army personnel escorts the trekker
The family member clause is active in AJK and IOK on and off, subject to the prevailing political situation. GB however, to the best of my knowledge, has nothing of the sort active. For the army escort you'd have to have some serious business and reason in the region for the GOP to go for it.
And on a lighter note, 2% have even suggested:
- I cross the border illegally (LOL! I don't have a death wish, no.)
- I get married to an NRI/a man of foreign origin and change my citizenship (LOL again)
To clarify, I am here to seek further clarifications and answers for that sensible 3%.
The civil and military intelligence agencies have a very vigilant eye on the whole region, especially on people entering or exiting the region. You have to pass through countless check-posts no matter which direction you're travelling. So many times has the news of me reaching reached before I did. Funny story; Once I was hitch hiking all the way to Karimabad and decided to jokingly fly under the radar. Since I was hitch hiking it was pretty easy for me to slip through the check posts without presenting my ID. Just at Karimabad's entrance a policeman and a man in civilian clothing hailed my car to stop. The civilian looking man told me that he was a local guide and had booked a nice hotel room for me with my dinner being prepared as we spoke. The hotel which he mentioned was where I usually stayed, the owner of which was an old friend. Now, throughout the trip, I had not mentioned to anyone where I was from (Lahore), where I was going to stay or what I was there for (Traversing the Hoppar Glacier) yet on our way to the hotel he casually asked me the weather of Lahore, told me that I had luckily missed the massive landslide at Pattan a day ago and told me that the Hoppar Glacier had unusually good conditions due to the winter arriving early that year. I dismissed everything thinking that someone must have informed the friend of my arrival and that he had sent this man to receive me out of the trademark hospitality that the region is famous for. The man left me at the hotel lobby wishing me a good trek. At dinner the friend asked me why had I shown up without any prior notice and that too with a civil intelligence guy escorting me. It was then that I realized what had happened and never tried it again. So yeah, one must never even think about it
Sadly even with a foreign passport you'd be dealt the same since you are from an Indian origin.
I just wish to trek to K2 base camp, not climb her highness (let's just settle this as a personal choice, ok?). I am a simple, ordinary mountain admirer, not a conqueror; and totally lack experience to even dream of climbing K2.
If you somehow do manage to get the permit, I promise you a cup of true Namkeen Chai and tons of support to make your trip go as amazingly as possible.
I can imagine how you must feel and I hope and pray that you do get to come to Pakistan and see how nature went insane here!
Until then, check this thread out
The Throne Room of Mountain Gods.
P.S.: I understand that many of you may have concerns about whether I have enough experience to go to K2. The answer is, "Even I don't know." However, I have trekked in Indian Himalayas and Everest Region (Gokyo Ri, Chola Pass and EBC). Hoping that with a little more trekking experience in Manaslu and Kanchenjunga regions (planned for this year), I will be able to make my way through K2. I am absolutely not making any comparison though.
Best of luck with Manaslu and Kanchenjunga! Give the giants my regards. As far as K2's base camp is concerned, I've got people who will do everything short of actually carrying you there.
ps: I apologize for such a late reply. Been tied up in a lot of things lately.
also narga parbat has just been summited in the winter, only k2 left.
What a day! What an achievement! And what of these Sadpara clansmen!? These guys live extremely harsh lives, completely disjoint from the world and maybe that is exactly the reason why they keep surprising the whole climbing world by producing, out of nowhere, one world class mountaineer after the other. Hassan Sadpara came first then Nisar Hussain Sadpara (who went missing, along with his Swiss and Austrian team mates, while racing to get the first winter ascent Vs Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb on Gasherbrum I) and now Ali Sadpara with the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat under his belt (According to Alex, Ali was the true leader of the expedition). How romantic is it that a son of the soil rose up out of nowhere to clench this great honour?
Ali and Alex at the summit,
Ali and Moro at the summit,
Note that Tamara Lunger couldn't make it to the summit,
And now, so befittingly, the great one remains...
Guys, I have to date climbed Sinhagad (without oxygen), Purandar, Torna, Rajgad, and recently conquered Rajmachi.
Mountaineering is a high which few can understand and fewer still are privileged to enjoy.
Props! Could you also include the altitudes of these peaks? And the regions they're at?