Flintlock
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Unfinished dream
The king was Raja Bhoj, who ruled between 1010-1053 AD, and the city is today known as Bhopal.
Much water has flown down the lake of Bhopal since then, but the great king left behind a beautiful Shiva temple which houses the largest Shiva lingam in the country. Bhojeshwar Temple, which is also known as the ‘Somnath of the East,’ was a grandiose dream of the Emperor that remains incomplete to this day, for reasons unknown.
On my way to Bhimbetka, the famous rock caves of Madhya Pradesh, I came across a direction board which pointed to Bhojpur. It was a cool November morning and I was in no hurry to reach my destination, so I took a detour and am I glad I did so! The gigantic temple standing at an elevation took my breath away with its magnificent silhouette. Standing tall, contrasted against the blue skies the red stoned temple, constructed in 1050 AD, is the declaration of an emperor’s faith.
I was captivated by the stunning visual of the two ornamental figures that guard the entrance of the temple.The panels on either side of the entrance were lined by graceful figures carved in stone reminding one of the skills of artisans during that time.
A richly-carved dome standing on four intricately patterned pillars greeted my eyes. It spread like a canopy protectively over the sanctum sanctorum.
I soaked in the beauty of the sculpted angels who were supporting the pillars at the upper end. The ambitious dome remained incomplete, open to the skies, admitting the elements of nature into the temple.
Divided into three sections, the lowest part of the dome is an octagon from which springs a 24-faceted segment. Richly ornamented brackets adorn the upper part of the dome.
The elaborate figures on top of the dome, although visible from the bottom of the temple, were distant enough to remain indistinct to my eyes. The three-tiered top is filled with much beauty and elaborateness of sculpture.
An amazing lingam, about 18 feet in circumference, crafted out of a single polished rock, stands right in the centre of the sanctum sanctorum. It is about 7.5 feet high and is mounted on a three-tiered sandstone platform– an example of classic architectural symphony.
As I walked around the temple, I discovered the earthen ramp that was used by the workmen to raise the structure to the dome-level. There were elaborately carved, jharoka-like balconies that projected from the outer walls. Were they supposed to end up as windows to the temple or just function as ornamental distraction? We would never know.
Had it been completed, Bhojeshwar temple certainly would have attained the status as one of the most beautiful and grand temples of the world. As it is, even with the ravages of time, it remains one of the best examples of temple architecture of the 12th and 13th centuries.
A little distance away, lay the stones and the sculpted figures that were to be affixed to the walls of the temple. Pillars, bases for the columns, crafted with diligence lay scattered all around. They are the mute testimony of the dreams that must have coloured the nights of the emperor and the craftsmen.
What caught my eye was a series of massive flat rocks beds that had been cordoned off with railings and chains. A closer look revealed them to be the floor plans of the temple. Some of the rocks were covered with clearly etched patterns to be carved on the stones to make pillars. How difficult it must have been for the architects and the craftsmen to engrave those details on hard rocks to such precision and perfection!
I made my way towards the ruins of the cyclopean dam that had once been constructed by Raja Bhoj to provide water to his kingdom. To the west of Bhojpur lies the dam, which edged a vast lake, at one time.
The site of the dam was chosen with great skill, as a natural wall of hills enclosed the whole area except for two gaps that were about 100 yards and 500 yards wide. These openings were closed by gigantic earthen dams, faced on both sides with enormous blocks of sandstone, many being four-feet-long, three-feet-broad and 2.5 feet high, set without mortar.
The smaller dam is 44 feet high and 300 feet thick at the base, the larger dam 24 feet high with a flat top 100 feet broad. These embankments held up an expanse of water of about 250 square miles. Today, nothing remains except the ruins of the magnificent old dams.
FACT FILE
Getting There:
*By Air: Bhopal (28 km from Bhojpur) is the nearest airport. It is connected with regular flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Indore and Gwalior.
*By Rail: Bhopal, on the Delhi-Madras and Delhi-Mumbai mainline, is the most convenient railhead.
*By Bus: Bhojpur is well connected by bus with Bhopal. Taxis can also be hired for the visit.
Unfinished dream - Deccan Herald - Internet Edition
The king was Raja Bhoj, who ruled between 1010-1053 AD, and the city is today known as Bhopal.
Much water has flown down the lake of Bhopal since then, but the great king left behind a beautiful Shiva temple which houses the largest Shiva lingam in the country. Bhojeshwar Temple, which is also known as the ‘Somnath of the East,’ was a grandiose dream of the Emperor that remains incomplete to this day, for reasons unknown.
On my way to Bhimbetka, the famous rock caves of Madhya Pradesh, I came across a direction board which pointed to Bhojpur. It was a cool November morning and I was in no hurry to reach my destination, so I took a detour and am I glad I did so! The gigantic temple standing at an elevation took my breath away with its magnificent silhouette. Standing tall, contrasted against the blue skies the red stoned temple, constructed in 1050 AD, is the declaration of an emperor’s faith.
I was captivated by the stunning visual of the two ornamental figures that guard the entrance of the temple.The panels on either side of the entrance were lined by graceful figures carved in stone reminding one of the skills of artisans during that time.
A richly-carved dome standing on four intricately patterned pillars greeted my eyes. It spread like a canopy protectively over the sanctum sanctorum.
I soaked in the beauty of the sculpted angels who were supporting the pillars at the upper end. The ambitious dome remained incomplete, open to the skies, admitting the elements of nature into the temple.
Divided into three sections, the lowest part of the dome is an octagon from which springs a 24-faceted segment. Richly ornamented brackets adorn the upper part of the dome.
The elaborate figures on top of the dome, although visible from the bottom of the temple, were distant enough to remain indistinct to my eyes. The three-tiered top is filled with much beauty and elaborateness of sculpture.
An amazing lingam, about 18 feet in circumference, crafted out of a single polished rock, stands right in the centre of the sanctum sanctorum. It is about 7.5 feet high and is mounted on a three-tiered sandstone platform– an example of classic architectural symphony.
As I walked around the temple, I discovered the earthen ramp that was used by the workmen to raise the structure to the dome-level. There were elaborately carved, jharoka-like balconies that projected from the outer walls. Were they supposed to end up as windows to the temple or just function as ornamental distraction? We would never know.
Had it been completed, Bhojeshwar temple certainly would have attained the status as one of the most beautiful and grand temples of the world. As it is, even with the ravages of time, it remains one of the best examples of temple architecture of the 12th and 13th centuries.
A little distance away, lay the stones and the sculpted figures that were to be affixed to the walls of the temple. Pillars, bases for the columns, crafted with diligence lay scattered all around. They are the mute testimony of the dreams that must have coloured the nights of the emperor and the craftsmen.
What caught my eye was a series of massive flat rocks beds that had been cordoned off with railings and chains. A closer look revealed them to be the floor plans of the temple. Some of the rocks were covered with clearly etched patterns to be carved on the stones to make pillars. How difficult it must have been for the architects and the craftsmen to engrave those details on hard rocks to such precision and perfection!
I made my way towards the ruins of the cyclopean dam that had once been constructed by Raja Bhoj to provide water to his kingdom. To the west of Bhojpur lies the dam, which edged a vast lake, at one time.
The site of the dam was chosen with great skill, as a natural wall of hills enclosed the whole area except for two gaps that were about 100 yards and 500 yards wide. These openings were closed by gigantic earthen dams, faced on both sides with enormous blocks of sandstone, many being four-feet-long, three-feet-broad and 2.5 feet high, set without mortar.
The smaller dam is 44 feet high and 300 feet thick at the base, the larger dam 24 feet high with a flat top 100 feet broad. These embankments held up an expanse of water of about 250 square miles. Today, nothing remains except the ruins of the magnificent old dams.
FACT FILE
Getting There:
*By Air: Bhopal (28 km from Bhojpur) is the nearest airport. It is connected with regular flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Indore and Gwalior.
*By Rail: Bhopal, on the Delhi-Madras and Delhi-Mumbai mainline, is the most convenient railhead.
*By Bus: Bhojpur is well connected by bus with Bhopal. Taxis can also be hired for the visit.
Unfinished dream - Deccan Herald - Internet Edition