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Sindh travel guide: digging deeper into South Pakistan
Alex
American by birth, British by passport, Filipina by appearance. Addicted to ice cream. Enjoys climbing trees, dislikes falling out. Has great fondness for goats which is usually not reciprocated.
A Sindh travel guide with information to help you plan a trip through Sindh, one of Pakistan’s least-traveled provinces.
What’s here?
Sindh province is a mystery to many.
Though it’s one of Pakistan’s most (religiously) diverse provinces, domestic and foreign tourists alike avoid its vast plains. Some fear danger, susceptible to its outdated reputation as a land of bandits and terrorists. Others are simply too preoccupied with Pakistan’s mountainous north to give the southern plains a moment of thought.
In reality, there’s good news and bad news to the Sindhi situation.
The troubles of traveling Sindh (as a foreigner)
Let’s start with the bad news: Sindh isn’t the easiest place to travel in, simply because so few people choose to do so. When few travel there, people aren’t used to tourists.
Security officials get their panties in a twist when they see rogue foreigners wandering around. Most hotels will not accept foreign visitors due to security concerns. Transportation is often slow or unreliable, and the province is scorching hot for much of the year. Mix in a lack of information about what to see and how to get there, and you have a recipe for a fat headache.
(Oh, and if you’re a solo female traveler—foreign or local—you’re going to stand out like crazy when you do anything on your own. Beware, stares of interior Sindhi dudes can poke holes in your soul.)
Sindhi dudes doing what they do best: staring
Why you should visit Sindh anyway
Staring dudes, nowhere to sleep, scorching heat, and security stalkers? Alex, this place sounds wretched.
Hold your horses. Obviously Sindh is worth a bit of challenge, else I wouldn’t bother recommending it to you!
On to the good news: Sindh isn’t as dangerous as some may lead you to believe, and it’s an adventure traveler’s dream.
Sindh is practically overflowing with myriad cultures and historical places. Jains, Hindus, Sikhs, and Muslims all reside within the province. Crumbling remains of forgotten forts and mosques wait by roadsides, while towering forts and majestic mahals still loom over the land.
Exploring a forgotten fort near Thatta with my friend Aamish
Visitors can scale mountains akin to sleeping dragons, and roam through vast deserts colored rainbow by textiles of women on their way to wells. Every time I visit I learn of more places I want to visit; in my Google Maps, Sindh is an explosion of marked places to see.
A final argument if that doesn’t sell you: many cities in Sindh have legal “wine shops” where you can simply rock up and buy yourself a bottle or some beers. I know that tickles some of your alcoholic taste buds!
Best time of year to visit Sindh
Now that I’ve convinced you to give Sindh a try, let’s talk about how to avoid death by heat in during your trip.
Sindh is hot like fire. Two of my visits to Sindh were in May, the peak of summertime in Pakistan and absolutely the worst time to visit the province.
I experienced temperatures nearing 50°C, and must say that I do notrecommend summer travel in Sindh. Let’s pretend it didn’t take me several visits to figure that one out.
If you want to actually enjoy your explorations of the province/not die from heat stroke, plan a winter trip.
Winter starts a bit after the end of the monsoon season that loosely runs from July to September. Temperatures begin to “cool” around October (if temperatures in the 20-30°C range count as cool to you) and winter goes on until February or so.
Top places to visit in Sindh
Now that I’ve convinced you that Sindh is totally worth visiting, here’s a few suggestions about places to visit in Sindh, Pakistan.
Remember this isn’t an end-all list; there are many more places to explore. These are meant to be a starting point for your planning.
Karachi’s iconic tripper buses
Karachi
Every traveler in Pakistan and their mother knows Karachi is in Sindh, so I don’t need to go too deeply into this. Whether it’s the starting point of your journey, a place to find some modern comforts midway, or your final destination, travelers visiting Sindh inevitably pass through Karachi at one point or another.
While there, feast your way around the Burns Road area, Karachi’s most famous food street(s). Chill on the grass outside the colonial Frere Hall… and pick up a book if the Sunday book bazaar is going on. Hop a ride on one of the multitude of psychedelic buses hurdling down its ways. Lose yourself in the cacophony of the old neighborhood of Sadar. Find some coastal chill away from the crowds at Mubarak Beach, or immerse yourself in the circus that is (filthy) Clifton Beach. Swap modernity for history during a day trip to Chaukaundi tombs on the outskirts of the city.
There are plenty of resources online about things to do in Karachi, so seek those out for more details.
Where to stay in Karachi
Karachi has a variety of guesthouses, but though no good budget options. Make sure note the location when picking accommodation in Karachi—traffic can be dense at the best of times, and you can easily lose many an hour attempting to traverse the city. Better to stay in a neighborhood close to the city center, such as Clifton.
One of myriad tombs at Makli Necropolis
Makli & Thatta
If you’re coming from Karachi, Thatta is a logical next step that can be visited during a day trip or a proper overnight adventure.
Though Thatta isn’t much to look at, architectural perfection is found in the form of the famous Shah Jehan mosque. Mughal archways line its courtyard, surrounding a stunning blue mosaic central chamber. It’s a cool escape from the desert city vibes outside.
Nearby Thatta is the UNESCO-listed Makli Necropolis, one of the largest necropolises in the world. Ornate graves and tombs stretch for kilometers. Some require you to ask for a caretaker’s help in getting in, others you can poke around in yourself. Don’t miss the vivid green Shrine of Hazrat Abdullah Shah Ashabi inside the necropolis area.
Where to stay in Makli & Thatta
There are a few dingy budget hotels along Thatta’s main road. But the only hotel that accepts foreigners is the SRO Guesthouse near Makli Necropolis run by the very friendly Ghulam Khwaja. In 2016, a double room cost 3,000 PKR per night, and included an AC, a comfy bed, and a large TV.
A bus outside a university in Hyderabad
Hyderabad
Sindh’s second biggest city is a bit of a madhouse, but it does host some pretty colonial buildings. Go for a stroll around the center city—don’t get run over by any vehicles, mind you—nom some Hyderabadi dum biryani, or spend some time chilling by the famous river Indus.
For most tourists, Hyderabad’s appeal lies mostly in the fact that it’s a strategic transit hub to other locations in Sindh. If you’re venturing to the Thar desert, or heading further into interior Sindh to places like Ranikot or Sehwan Sharif, you’ll likely pass through Hyderabad.
Where to stay in Hyderabad
Sunset at Gorakh Hill Station
Gorakh Hill Station
Mountains in Sindh? Say what?!
Yep, it’s true. The Kirthar mountains divide the provinces of Sindh and Balochistan. Gorakh Hill is one of the highest points along the range, clocking in at 1,734 meters (5,689 ft).
Accessible only by a two-hour jeep ride from nearby Wahi Pandi village, the views from the top of the hill are stunning, as is the view of the stars once the sun sets. The steep cliffs look their best in the daylight—the sunset catches them nicely—but I highly recommend an overnight stay on a clear night for a full Gorakh experience.
Caution: it gets chilly at night! Do pack warm clothes, especially if visiting in winter.
Where to stay at Gorakh Hill Station
There are one or two guesthouses near the viewpoint at the top of the hill, such as Gorakh Restaurant and Summer Huts. You can also find tents for rent during warmer months.
Alex
American by birth, British by passport, Filipina by appearance. Addicted to ice cream. Enjoys climbing trees, dislikes falling out. Has great fondness for goats which is usually not reciprocated.
A Sindh travel guide with information to help you plan a trip through Sindh, one of Pakistan’s least-traveled provinces.
What’s here?
- Troubles of traveling Sindh
- Why Sindh is worth your while
- Best time to visit Sindh
- Top places to visit in Sindh
- Day trip destinations in Sindh
- Security in Sindh
- Accommodation in Sindh
- Tours and travel guides for Sindh
Sindh province is a mystery to many.
Though it’s one of Pakistan’s most (religiously) diverse provinces, domestic and foreign tourists alike avoid its vast plains. Some fear danger, susceptible to its outdated reputation as a land of bandits and terrorists. Others are simply too preoccupied with Pakistan’s mountainous north to give the southern plains a moment of thought.
In reality, there’s good news and bad news to the Sindhi situation.
The troubles of traveling Sindh (as a foreigner)
Let’s start with the bad news: Sindh isn’t the easiest place to travel in, simply because so few people choose to do so. When few travel there, people aren’t used to tourists.
Security officials get their panties in a twist when they see rogue foreigners wandering around. Most hotels will not accept foreign visitors due to security concerns. Transportation is often slow or unreliable, and the province is scorching hot for much of the year. Mix in a lack of information about what to see and how to get there, and you have a recipe for a fat headache.
(Oh, and if you’re a solo female traveler—foreign or local—you’re going to stand out like crazy when you do anything on your own. Beware, stares of interior Sindhi dudes can poke holes in your soul.)
Sindhi dudes doing what they do best: staring
Why you should visit Sindh anyway
Staring dudes, nowhere to sleep, scorching heat, and security stalkers? Alex, this place sounds wretched.
Hold your horses. Obviously Sindh is worth a bit of challenge, else I wouldn’t bother recommending it to you!
On to the good news: Sindh isn’t as dangerous as some may lead you to believe, and it’s an adventure traveler’s dream.
Sindh is practically overflowing with myriad cultures and historical places. Jains, Hindus, Sikhs, and Muslims all reside within the province. Crumbling remains of forgotten forts and mosques wait by roadsides, while towering forts and majestic mahals still loom over the land.
Exploring a forgotten fort near Thatta with my friend Aamish
Visitors can scale mountains akin to sleeping dragons, and roam through vast deserts colored rainbow by textiles of women on their way to wells. Every time I visit I learn of more places I want to visit; in my Google Maps, Sindh is an explosion of marked places to see.
A final argument if that doesn’t sell you: many cities in Sindh have legal “wine shops” where you can simply rock up and buy yourself a bottle or some beers. I know that tickles some of your alcoholic taste buds!
Best time of year to visit Sindh
Now that I’ve convinced you to give Sindh a try, let’s talk about how to avoid death by heat in during your trip.
Sindh is hot like fire. Two of my visits to Sindh were in May, the peak of summertime in Pakistan and absolutely the worst time to visit the province.
I experienced temperatures nearing 50°C, and must say that I do notrecommend summer travel in Sindh. Let’s pretend it didn’t take me several visits to figure that one out.
If you want to actually enjoy your explorations of the province/not die from heat stroke, plan a winter trip.
Winter starts a bit after the end of the monsoon season that loosely runs from July to September. Temperatures begin to “cool” around October (if temperatures in the 20-30°C range count as cool to you) and winter goes on until February or so.
Top places to visit in Sindh
Now that I’ve convinced you that Sindh is totally worth visiting, here’s a few suggestions about places to visit in Sindh, Pakistan.
Remember this isn’t an end-all list; there are many more places to explore. These are meant to be a starting point for your planning.
Karachi’s iconic tripper buses
Karachi
Every traveler in Pakistan and their mother knows Karachi is in Sindh, so I don’t need to go too deeply into this. Whether it’s the starting point of your journey, a place to find some modern comforts midway, or your final destination, travelers visiting Sindh inevitably pass through Karachi at one point or another.
While there, feast your way around the Burns Road area, Karachi’s most famous food street(s). Chill on the grass outside the colonial Frere Hall… and pick up a book if the Sunday book bazaar is going on. Hop a ride on one of the multitude of psychedelic buses hurdling down its ways. Lose yourself in the cacophony of the old neighborhood of Sadar. Find some coastal chill away from the crowds at Mubarak Beach, or immerse yourself in the circus that is (filthy) Clifton Beach. Swap modernity for history during a day trip to Chaukaundi tombs on the outskirts of the city.
There are plenty of resources online about things to do in Karachi, so seek those out for more details.
Where to stay in Karachi
Karachi has a variety of guesthouses, but though no good budget options. Make sure note the location when picking accommodation in Karachi—traffic can be dense at the best of times, and you can easily lose many an hour attempting to traverse the city. Better to stay in a neighborhood close to the city center, such as Clifton.
- Budget: Nothing in Karachi stands out in terms of good value for money, but there are a few guesthouses listed on Booking.com for less than US$25 per night.
- Mid-range: I stayed at Mariner’s Base Apartments on my second trip to Karachi, and was very pleased with their spacious apartments and central location of the building.
- Luxury: The Movenpick Hotel is the nicest hotel in Karachi, and relatively cheap compared to Movenpicks in other countries.
One of myriad tombs at Makli Necropolis
Makli & Thatta
If you’re coming from Karachi, Thatta is a logical next step that can be visited during a day trip or a proper overnight adventure.
Though Thatta isn’t much to look at, architectural perfection is found in the form of the famous Shah Jehan mosque. Mughal archways line its courtyard, surrounding a stunning blue mosaic central chamber. It’s a cool escape from the desert city vibes outside.
Nearby Thatta is the UNESCO-listed Makli Necropolis, one of the largest necropolises in the world. Ornate graves and tombs stretch for kilometers. Some require you to ask for a caretaker’s help in getting in, others you can poke around in yourself. Don’t miss the vivid green Shrine of Hazrat Abdullah Shah Ashabi inside the necropolis area.
Where to stay in Makli & Thatta
There are a few dingy budget hotels along Thatta’s main road. But the only hotel that accepts foreigners is the SRO Guesthouse near Makli Necropolis run by the very friendly Ghulam Khwaja. In 2016, a double room cost 3,000 PKR per night, and included an AC, a comfy bed, and a large TV.
A bus outside a university in Hyderabad
Hyderabad
Sindh’s second biggest city is a bit of a madhouse, but it does host some pretty colonial buildings. Go for a stroll around the center city—don’t get run over by any vehicles, mind you—nom some Hyderabadi dum biryani, or spend some time chilling by the famous river Indus.
For most tourists, Hyderabad’s appeal lies mostly in the fact that it’s a strategic transit hub to other locations in Sindh. If you’re venturing to the Thar desert, or heading further into interior Sindh to places like Ranikot or Sehwan Sharif, you’ll likely pass through Hyderabad.
Where to stay in Hyderabad
- Budget: Al Rehman Guesthouse accepts foreigners, and has rooms for US$20 or less per night.
- Mid-range to upscale: Hotel Indus will run you around US$70 per night, but at least you won’t have to worry about security—they accept foreign guests.
Sunset at Gorakh Hill Station
Gorakh Hill Station
Mountains in Sindh? Say what?!
Yep, it’s true. The Kirthar mountains divide the provinces of Sindh and Balochistan. Gorakh Hill is one of the highest points along the range, clocking in at 1,734 meters (5,689 ft).
Accessible only by a two-hour jeep ride from nearby Wahi Pandi village, the views from the top of the hill are stunning, as is the view of the stars once the sun sets. The steep cliffs look their best in the daylight—the sunset catches them nicely—but I highly recommend an overnight stay on a clear night for a full Gorakh experience.
Caution: it gets chilly at night! Do pack warm clothes, especially if visiting in winter.
Where to stay at Gorakh Hill Station
There are one or two guesthouses near the viewpoint at the top of the hill, such as Gorakh Restaurant and Summer Huts. You can also find tents for rent during warmer months.
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Are you 007 
... In fact, I would like to have you as a company bro along with our gracious host 
