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Neelum Valley: A song of splendour and separation
MARVI SOOMRO
My great grandfather used to narrate to me tales of a valley which was nothing short of paradise on earth. He spoke of its clear waters and chilly summers; its orange autumns and snowy winters; its beautiful people and blood stained history; but mostly, of the urge to cross the river and unite with his people.
I believe there is only one such place in this land that would fit the narrative and knows of the heart’s desire to be united with those who live in the land so close and yet so far – Kashmir.
The destination for our annual company trip this year was set to Neelum Valley. Situated in the Azad Kashmir region, the valley stretches from 50 kilometers north of Muzaffarabad to the existing LoC between Azad Kashmir and Indian-held Kashmir.
En Route Keran. —Marvi Soomro
Kundal Shahi en route Keran. —Marvi Soomro
Nearly 120 colleagues from Lahore and Islamabad set forth for a weekend getaway. As we ascended, the lush green mountains and gushing rivers of Neelum accompanied us. The breeze turned chilly and the sunlight shone on the valley like a million little glittery specks.
Our first stop after some 10 hours of travelling was the dense green village of Keran.
This is the closest you can get to Indian-held Kashmir today, which runs just across the River. The Keran View Hotel has a spectacular backyard that touches the Neelum River; its clear blue waters separating you from the banned side.
The Keran View Resort. —Marvi Soomro
At the banks of the Neelum River in Keran. —Marvi Soomro
Standing by the riverside and looking across, you realise life is not so different on the other side; the neatly aligned wooden houses are exact replicas of the ones where I stood, among women working in the fields and children playing by the banks of Neelum.
The absence of mobile signals/internet services is a strange and wonderful liberation. The focus is no longer on a social network check-in, instead it is on the serenity of this place, sinking in until you are separated from the rest of the noisy world.
For adventure-seekers, Keran is usually a mid-stop before ascending further up, and so was the case for us. After a round of garma garam chai and pakorayfrom a roadside shack, we were all set to travel to our next destination.
Chai at Keran. —Marvi Soomro
On a 3.5 hour travel from Keran is the quiet village of Shardha, said to be named after a legendary princess. Just off the main road and connected by a suspension bridge, the village is an epitome of serenity.
As we set camp, the night awed us by an unadulterated blackness, the twinkling skies, and the reflections in the river; the morning too, stunned us with a view of the snow-covered Noorinar peak, standing tall in the background.
Contrary to when travelling in Gilgit Baltistan, the Neelum Valley does not offer you many options in terms of where you can stay and what you can eat. This part of Pakistan lags behind not just in tourism facilities, but also in the number of tourists it receives each year.
A desi breakfast of omelettes and parathas with cups of tea to wash it down is all you will find around this area, but it’s enough to fill your stomach and charge you up for the adventures ahead.
Locals en route Keran. —Marvi Soomro
MARVI SOOMRO
My great grandfather used to narrate to me tales of a valley which was nothing short of paradise on earth. He spoke of its clear waters and chilly summers; its orange autumns and snowy winters; its beautiful people and blood stained history; but mostly, of the urge to cross the river and unite with his people.
I believe there is only one such place in this land that would fit the narrative and knows of the heart’s desire to be united with those who live in the land so close and yet so far – Kashmir.
The destination for our annual company trip this year was set to Neelum Valley. Situated in the Azad Kashmir region, the valley stretches from 50 kilometers north of Muzaffarabad to the existing LoC between Azad Kashmir and Indian-held Kashmir.
En Route Keran. —Marvi Soomro
Kundal Shahi en route Keran. —Marvi Soomro
Nearly 120 colleagues from Lahore and Islamabad set forth for a weekend getaway. As we ascended, the lush green mountains and gushing rivers of Neelum accompanied us. The breeze turned chilly and the sunlight shone on the valley like a million little glittery specks.
Our first stop after some 10 hours of travelling was the dense green village of Keran.
This is the closest you can get to Indian-held Kashmir today, which runs just across the River. The Keran View Hotel has a spectacular backyard that touches the Neelum River; its clear blue waters separating you from the banned side.
The Keran View Resort. —Marvi Soomro
At the banks of the Neelum River in Keran. —Marvi Soomro
Standing by the riverside and looking across, you realise life is not so different on the other side; the neatly aligned wooden houses are exact replicas of the ones where I stood, among women working in the fields and children playing by the banks of Neelum.
The absence of mobile signals/internet services is a strange and wonderful liberation. The focus is no longer on a social network check-in, instead it is on the serenity of this place, sinking in until you are separated from the rest of the noisy world.
For adventure-seekers, Keran is usually a mid-stop before ascending further up, and so was the case for us. After a round of garma garam chai and pakorayfrom a roadside shack, we were all set to travel to our next destination.
Chai at Keran. —Marvi Soomro
On a 3.5 hour travel from Keran is the quiet village of Shardha, said to be named after a legendary princess. Just off the main road and connected by a suspension bridge, the village is an epitome of serenity.
As we set camp, the night awed us by an unadulterated blackness, the twinkling skies, and the reflections in the river; the morning too, stunned us with a view of the snow-covered Noorinar peak, standing tall in the background.
Contrary to when travelling in Gilgit Baltistan, the Neelum Valley does not offer you many options in terms of where you can stay and what you can eat. This part of Pakistan lags behind not just in tourism facilities, but also in the number of tourists it receives each year.
A desi breakfast of omelettes and parathas with cups of tea to wash it down is all you will find around this area, but it’s enough to fill your stomach and charge you up for the adventures ahead.
Locals en route Keran. —Marvi Soomro
