Serpentine
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My name is Brandon and I began Humans of New York in the summer of 2010. HONY resulted from an idea that I had to construct a photographic census of New York City. I thought it would be really cool to create an exhaustive catalogue of the citys inhabitants, so I set out to photograph 10,000 New Yorkers and plot their photos on a map. I worked for several months with this goal in mind. But somewhere along the way, HONY began to take on a much different character. I started collecting quotes and short stories from the people I met, and began including these snippets alongside the photographs. Taken together, these portraits and captions became the subject of a vibrant blog, which over the past two years has gained hundreds of thousands of followers. With over 300,000 collective followers on Facebook and Tumblr, HONY provides a worldwide audience with daily glimpses into the lives of strangers in New York City.
ON TRAVEL TO IRAN:
The US Government has a lengthy travel warning for Iran. While not advising you to ignore this warning, I do advise that you balance it with direct accounts of Americans who have recently visited the country. These accounts are generally filled with superlatives the country is beautiful, the history is rich, and the people are eager to demonstrate their almost-sacred commitment to hospitality.
Americans are especially loved. This was noted in every travel account that I read, and I can confirm the fact. You will be smiled at, waved at, invited to meals, and asked to deliver personal messages to Jennifer Lopez. American music, movies, and media are thoroughly consumed by the people of Iran. Like all countries, there are many different viewpoints, but the vast majority of people will associate you with a culture they admire and respect.
I was by no means starry eyed. Im well aware of Irans modern history and government, though my portraits pointedly contained no mention of either. Some of the governments policies are unfortunately impossible to ignore: Israelis, for example, are not allowed to enter the country. You cannot even enter the country if you have an Israeli stamp in your passport.* I mention this only because its well publicized and relavent to travel. Im avoiding all other critiques, because I am foremost a photographer, and these issues are well-trodden by Western media outlets.
But I can tell you this: for two weeks I mingled with the culture, people, and scenery of Iran, with almost no interference from the government. (A privilege admittedly denied to Irans citizenry) I enjoyed the advantages that a tourist receives in any country. Like all countries, Iran has a strong economic interest in insuring its tourists enjoy themselves. Everyone in an official capacity will be very eager that you enjoy your stay. The unfortunate reality is that our two governments have hostile relations, so you will not be allowed to stay in Iranian homes, or go off on your own with Iranian friends. But you will be given extensive freedom to tour the country.
Because you are an American, you will be assigned a guide. But this will be an unexpected blessing. The guide is trained in tourism, and is by no means a government minder. Beyond insuring that you adhere to the guidelines mentioned above, their job is to educate you on the history and culture of Iran. Assuming you have no interest in journalism or espionage, the guide will facilitate and expand your experience. In all likelihood, he/she will become your friend. My guide was Mohammad Eslami. If you plan on travelling to Iran, I recommend contacting him: mohammadjavad_82@yahoo.com
You will need a visa. This is most easily achieved through AITO, a tourism agency linked with the Foreign Ministry. In all likelihood it will be approved within 2 weeks. Your visa will need to be retrieved from the Pakistani embassy in Washington DC. (Though I believe you can arrange for it to be shipped.)
Lastly, travel to Iran is extremely cheap right now. It is a darkly beneficial effect of the recent currency devaluation. In very few places can you currently see more, for less.
Ill close with the common cliche: Irans government is not its people. You can greatly enjoy a country, while at the same time disagreeing with its government. Travel is not advocacy of ideology or policy. Travel is travel, and its the single greatest contributor to understanding between cultures.
*Edited to reflect that Jews can enter the country, given that they've never been to Israel.
There were a lot of uncertainties surrounding my trip to Iran. The US Government advises against all travel to Iran, and especially warns against photography. I travelled to Iran without knowing if Id be able to achieve anything resembling my work in NYC.
I knew that a lions share of my success would hinge on one thing: my guide. Like all Americans, I was assigned a full time guide during my travels through the country. All I knew was that his name was Mohammad, and he was certified by the government to lead Americans.
Who was this man? And how was he going to respond when I told him: Museums are great, but instead lets walk around all day and ask strangers for their photograph.
Mohammad was an absolute godsend. He not only allowed my photography, but he believed in it and became a partner in its success. Asking strangers for photographs is an intimidating process. But he never once refused to make an approach. And almost always, he succeeded in securing permission.
As a result, the collection of photographs that emerged from this trip were a collaborative effort. I provided the eye, Mohammad provided the tongue. Without him, none of these photos would exist, and I am so thankful for his contribution.
Humans of New York
http://www.facebook.com/humansofnewyork?fref=ts
For Iranian members:
http://gizmiz.com/humans-of-newyork/
In following posts, I will add the pics.