“Hey man! Where are you going?”
“For a walk,” I replied. A twenty-something guy in a business suit appeared from behind me, and it seemed as if I had been caught. His English wasn’t very good but he was trying to use it anyway, so I kept my Mandarin in check and strung him on with a babble of my native tongue as I continued walking. He chose to follow at my heels and struggle over my gibberish rather than simply boot me out the mall.
“Walk with me,” I requested. He obliged. I now had a guide — free of charge.
Fake KFC sign that 60 Minutes filmed
We walked together into belly of the empty mall. Fake signs for Western stores lined both sides of the hallway to demonstrate what this place could look like if it actually had any stores. KFC, Starbucks, Zara, Adidas, Nike were all represented.
“When was this mall built?” I asked my new found wing man.
“Three years ago,” he responded.
“Has there ever been any stores here?”
He answered that the place has always been barren of business.
Soon we came to the end of the “show mall.” We crossed the divide between the make believe and entered into the real. It was truly desolate. The walls no longer had white paneling over them and the floor was no longer tiled. Everything was stripped bare, to the raw. We were enveloped in a grey skeleton of concrete. Apparently, the developers hadn’t seen the point of finishing off a mall that would have no stores in the near future.
Empty halls of the ghost mall
A group of men soon overtook us and marched up a stationary, broken down escalator. I joined them. We went up to the second floor, which was even more bleak and unfinished than the first.
“Are they investors?” I asked my guide about the men whose group I had just crashed.
“No, they are visitors on a business trip,” he responded lightly.
It turned out that the guy who was awkwardly shadowing me was actually a bona fide tour guide for the ghost mall. It was actually his job to give visitors tours of this empty carcass of a shopping center. The group of men that I found myself with were purposefully taken to this abandoned mall as part of their recreational tour of the Zhengdong CBD. It then became very clear that China’s forsaken developments mean something very different to the Chinese than than do to us foreigners.
In China, abandoned malls and ghost cities are not taken as ominous signs of financial uncertainty and impending economic doom, but they are seen as bounties of potential and opportunity. Likewise, the Chinese don’t try to hide their massive, under-populated, and lifeless developments. No, they flaunt them. Nobody here in China is admitting defeat, they are just getting started.
Maybe someday this will be a commercial center?
“Did you know that people in America say that this city doesn’t have any people in it?” I prodded my guide.
He was familiar with the reports I was referring to, and was not shocked by my question.
“This is a new development,” he spoke with finality. He may as well have said Rome wasn’t built in a day.
Things like this take time.
“What do you think of Zhengdong?” he suddenly asked.
“I think it has potential,” I replied. I wanted to say that I think the place is an all out miracle, but I held back — I didn’t want to have to record myself getting all gushy in a report that was intended to tear a hole in this country’s insane over-development.
“What do you think?” I returned the question.
“I work here so I think it is very cool.”
“Do you think there will be stores here?” I then asked
“Yes, in one year,” he spoke with certainty.
This phrase sounded like wishful thinking or public relations BS, but from looking at how this new district has grown in such a short period of time, I couldn’t doubt him.
“More and more people are coming,” he continued.
“Are they coming quickly?”
“Yes, very quickly.”
Fake Nike sign above vacant store
I couldn’t argue, from what I’d seen so far, what we call “Chinese ghost cities” in the West are often really just new cities at various stages of being developed. It is true that we were walking through the skeleton of a mall, but it was one that at least has a chance of being filled with muscle tissue, blood, guts, a heart, and the vital pulse of commerce. We have to remember here that Shanghai’s Pudong business district was very much underused for years after its inception, and now it’s a symbol China’s economic prowess.
China is on a future kick. This is a county that is hastily racing for the future, but is one that is also patient. No alarm bells or whistles are going off in China about ghost cities and failed developments. There is no question here that just about everything that is being built will someday be utilized. Perhaps this is wishful thinking, perhaps it’s naivety, but it’s far too soon to tell.
People gathered in the park in the center of the CBD
I exited one mall and then made for another. Unmentioned in the 60 Minutes report is that right across the way from the Orient Center ghost mall is an even larger shopping center called Mid Town Seven. The only difference is that this one is completely full of shops, restaurants, and people.
The Mid Town Seven mall is actually seven large shopping centers that stretch around the bottom arch of the CBD for seven blocks. I entered this colossus of commerce and found a cheap restaurant. I took out my laptop and got online as I chowed through my meal. I loaded up the 60 Minutes ghost city report and thought it would be interesting to show it to the people working in the restaurant. I invited the waitresses over to watch, and they curiously sat down around me. I pushed play and then roughly translated what was being said on the video. The girls watched as a couple of foreigners stood in the very city they work in — the very place we were currently sitting in — and proclaimed it to be deserted.
“But we are here!” one of the girls exclaimed. The others looked equally perplexed.
“Are they lying?” I asked them.
“Yes, we live here,” another girl chimed in.
I can’t say they were offended by the video, it simply seemed too ridiculous and surreal for them to take seriously. Imagine watching a foreign news report which claimed that the town you live and work in is desolate and abandoned.
Girls watching the 60 Minutes video which claimed nobody lives in their city
But 60 Minutes was not the only major news source to recently cast Zhengdong as being a failed development. Since 2010 this area has been the butt of many major reports in the international media. The Daily Mail called it “China’s largest ghost city,” and the title seems to have stuck. Earlier this month,
Business Insider claimed that, “The central business district [of Zhengdong] features a ring of significantly vacant skyscrapers,” and many other sources made similar claims.
High-rises which have people living in them
But it is no secret that Zhengzhou’s new area and the Zhengdong financial district are not ghost towns. For more that two years reports have been published from people who have actually been there which simply say: there are people here, this place is coming alive. In 2011, New Geography visited Zhengdong and fully
debunked the claim that it was deserted, the Heartland Institute also
made a similar claim the same year, and the Chinese media, of course, has not been quiet about the fact that this new development is not what the big international news agencies say it is. These reports have largely been ignored by the Western mainstream media, who have entrenched themselves so deeply in the position that China is full of ghost cities that it seems difficult for them to climb out and see these places for what they are.
I then left the financial district and headed north into the residential part of the Zhengdong new district. New housing developments were packed in tightly here like a bundle of needles soldered together on the end of a tattooer’s quill. I do not mean to claim in this report that Zhengdong is not over-developed and under-populated. I do not mean to say that this place is functioning at 100% capacity. What I am pointing out is that the truth is spread graciously between two extremes: Zhengdog new district is neither a ghost city nor is it yet thriving. The truth is always more complicate and complex than a 12 minute television news report can capture.
A sea of high-rises stretching across Zhengdong New District
But 60 Minutes simplified the situation by simply calling the entirety of Zhengdong barren and deserted — they went for hype and got it, but rendered their report a work of fiction in the process. They went into skyscrapers full of businesses and then called them abandoned; they showed occupied high-rises and claimed nobody lives in them; they filmed in an abandoned mall but ignored the thriving one nearby; they filmed areas that are not even built yet and used it as an example of how people are not moving into the district.
By the time Stahl and Tulloch arrived, Zhengdong’s GDP was rising by 13.2% per year, and had generated $1.22 billion in tax revenue the year before. 15 major banks, including HSBC, also had their regional headquarters there, which processed 70% of deposits and 60% of all loans in Henan Province. On top of this, Zhengdong was home to 15 universities which brought in 240,000 students and teachers. The place that 60 Minutes claimed to be uninhabited “for miles and miles and miles” actually had 2.5 million residents. Stahl and Tulloch did not find a ghost city in Zhengzhou, they created one.
As I descended the the elevator of the Novotel tower I made the acquaintance of a business man who worked there. We chatted as we walked outside and into the streets together. I then asked him the hallmark question of my ghost city investigation:
“Did you know that the Western media says that nobody lives here?”
“It is not true,” he replied sharply. As he spoke he gestured with a wave of his hand to the city that surrounded us as if to say, “Just look around, it’s obvious that isn’t true.”
I agreed.
“You tell America,” he spoke, “that there are people and business in Zhengdong.”
Wade Shepard is the author of Ghost Cities of China. Get it now from